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i've seen the scopion one on my friend's d110 over here in singapore!! ok, what you really need to do is to also put a backing plate on the part which you mount to the tub (it doesn't come with one, but a simple 4mm steel plate will do the trick). i've seen his nearly ripped off when he went...

sometimes, even if it's not leaking, the fluid is going past the seal in the master pump and hence nothing happens, the clutch plate doesn't move as nothing is pushing it. so the moral of the story is, clutch master pump will fail every 20000km. a small leak in the footwell of clutch fluid...

there's something like a hydraulic lock. A single key to operate. it actually is a plug in into the brake or clutch hydraulics. when the key is lock, all looks well. When the brake / clutch is depressed, the oil will move and not return, so in the clutch mode, the clutch stays down and you...

sounds like the problem i had. see the post on 'headlamps won't turn on'. if the high beam does come on, and when you have the headlamps on dip and not even the dashboard lights are on, the switch contact melted. remove the switch from the dash, flip it over and check the contacts. you should...

on the front, it's just below the bumper. if your defender is in good shape, you'll have two rubber caps there.you just have to pull them off and you'll find a hole to insert the jack. on the rear, it's the 2 largest round holes on the cross member, can't go wrong.

perhaps if you check the linkage, from the dash to the heater matrix. it actually pulls a valve which allows the coolant from the main system to run thru a tiny radiator in the heater matrix. if this linkage is broken, the valve could be stuck in a closed position, hence not allowing the hot...

Got myself a new switch for 83 pounds!!! ridiculously expensive from the local LR dealer!! the original melted. even the brass contact point has totally disappeared.

Lucas, the price of darkness has visited my 2002 defender. i believe the switch is melted, but before i go run out there and spend 30 pounds on the real thing, i don't mind a few opinions. When i flick the switch to have the main beams on, eveything goes out in darkness. no lights on the dash...

Sounds like an interesting thing. Pardon my ignorance, but where is this thing located? Maybe i'll try counting mine.

Yes the Td5 are the same up to 2006. Can't say for the 2007. just yank at the bottom piece and it comes off as what you would expect.

the td5 defender has most of it's power on tap at even 30% travel range of the gas pedal. it goes into long travel mode as in low range for better control. so during the first 30% of travel of the gas pedal, the engine can almost be like abt more than 50% power. the moral of the story is that...

Normal. No problems. All Td5 i've seen do that.

i've just changed my shocks and springs on my 2002 d90 td5. Yes, they are decarbon shocks and the springs are progressive from scorpion, but no lifting. My answer is that the handling is better especially when you do corners above 70kmh. Less body roll and you don't get the about to flip on...

sounds all too familiar even in my landy. when especially in low gear when you rev hard and release the gas suddenly, i get the same thing. i just clutch in. no jerks. ok, never do this off road, on road, can 'lah'.

rev the engine to 2.5k rpm, clutch in, pull the gear out of 1, release the clutch, blip the gas, clutch in, put the gear into 2.

when i flick on the turning indicator the trailer light blinks briefly and then stays off. i believe it's normal. if trailer attatch it should be illuminated. i think it's stated in the owners manual.

1. change the stalk 2. sorry can't help you. my 2002 td5 doesn't have this option 3. when you back of the gas, does it always happen even on flat road or is it down a slight incline. does goes away when you dip the clutch? i tink it's the driveline pushing on the gear box. check flywheel...

use coloured coolant. like bright green. i've tried that and found the leak i was looking for.

change engine oil every 10k km, include oil filter and air filter and diesel filter. i'm on synthetic oil. gear oil every 40k km. it's in the serivce book if you buy yrs new.

could be the cold plug. those copper plugs at the water jacket below the engine. i've changed mine already. it's a real pain to remove as you need to remove things like the alternator and bits and pieces around the engine block to get to it. cost only $4.50 a piece in sg, but heck a lot of...