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Right, this poxy thing is really winding me up now. The old tailgate window regulator was intermittent, and when in "failure mode" (glass stuck, door not opening) I put it into self-test mode and was able to see that inputs from the switch in the cab were OK, door handle OK, output to the motor...

Mine were like that until recently. I just sanded the coating off on all three, going down the grades to about 800 grit, spray primed them and then topcoated in gloss black. Once dry, I hand painted the little white indicator on with a very fine brush. As far as I could tell they never let any...

...tick, tick, tick, duck down now, your IRD's about to blow up.....B O O M ! ! But seriously... are you sure it's the IRD whining and not the VCU mount bearings?

That sounds like a motor fault to me. Never taken one apart or had a problem with mine so I'm only going by experience of previous vehicles.

Central Door Locking switch on the dash fascia panel.

Try it when the temperature drops in a while. Seriously. My tailgate window motor is failing and always locks the glass shut when the back of the vehicle is facing the sun when it's hot. Soon as it cools down, it starts working again. It's a crap and complicated system LR employed on the F/L...

Oooh, that was knackered, wasn't it? At least it's fixed now and you will probably notice a difference in how quickly the engine will get up to temperature now. Particularly when it gets colder. Job done.

Mine came off last Tues and I'm in a bionic boot thing for a couple of weeks. Foot and ankle are still a bit swollen and tender, but I can walk on it now and I'm going back to work tomorrow. Progress then for both of us! You having any physio on your arm? Not sure about my foot, I'll see in a...

Well, if you're gonna get done anyway, you might as well just go and BURN the neighbour's car...

Good point. Where is everyone? OK, here goes: check you've got your matches with you in the likely event that you need to BURN IT!!!! OMG PMSL LOL it's all SO feckin funny :hysterically_laughi:

It could also be a seized cable. There's one each side, linked behind the handbrake by a single cable. The individual ones have a tendency to seize up. This happened to me. New cable sorted it out. Not a difficult fix, but a bit fiddly as you have to dismantle the affected rear brake to get the...

Better. I'd still try and find out just how slim they are before committing though. And you'll still have the fun of adapting the existing speaker mounts or making new ones up. I have been through this so I am speaking from experience here (as it were):rolleyes:

5.25" dia probably would be OK, but, looking at those ones, they're WAY too deep! Although without seeing them for real it's hard to tell, of course...:)

13cm or about 5.5" in old money, I believe. T'aint a straight swap, btw. You may have to make some mounting plates up to go behind the door trim or cut the old cone out of its plastic mount and use that. Word to the wise: don't go for whopper loud ones with massive magnets on the back or they...

Worn front suspension top mounts can do this. Worth a thought if you cannot trace the knocking to anything else. Check all the other stuff first as it's all easier to look over.

Probably keep an eye on it for now. Depends if your coolant is getting up to temperature or not - is your gauge sitting on or around the halfway mark? If it's lower it could indicate the thermostat's had it and you'll be wanting to replace it before the winter anyway. F/L heaters are pretty...

Here you go, it's on special offer at the mo: Thermostat Td4 PEL100570L Island 4x4 - Specialists in Land Rover and Range Rover Parts and accessories for all models. UK and worldwide mail order.

I got mine from Island 4x4. It was the genuine article, and cost £35 + delivery, from memory. Make sure you've got the correct Tx tools I've listed in the "How to do it" thread. It'll be a nightmare without them. Other than that it's just standard spanners and sockets.

I would have said that the only way to get that pipe out of the way to replace the O ring is to either loosen it sufficiently OR remove the thermostat housing. The first way is fraught with difficulty as, even if you remove the coolant rail bolts on the back of the engine, it is still a bastard...

I aim to please ;)