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I'd get not only a set of Torx sockets, but a set of insert bits too. A lot of trim is held on with TX insert bolts or screws. Those tools are in addition to your normal sockets and spanners of course :)

As if most on this bit are going to know about the BoB option:D Mine's a pre facelift Td4 so I can't be part of the poll. Most of the newer ones I see, however, are Td4s. I do know of one V6 too.

Idling could be a dodgy injector, but I reckon there would be starting problems too. It could be (one of) the electric fuel pump(s) playing up. Mine is a 51 plate with one pump in the tank and one under the bonnet. I replaced the original under-bonnet pump 18 months ago and it's now failing...

That one won't cause the EML problem. My reservoir sensor broke years ago and the brake warning light came on, that was all. I just disconnected it and put a wire link in the plug to fool the light into staying off :)

Rear diff mounts need replacing. Do a search. Been covered many times.

Don't know, but have a look at pics of Td4 ones on ebay, say, and compare and contrast! If you do end up buying one, don't get a cheap one. Mine is the Allisport one and it is very good quality. No chance of it warping from the heat as it's made from nice thick metal.

Have a shufty at my thread here from a few weeks ago. On the second page I sum up what I did to get the IRD casing apart to cure the leak. http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f9/ird-missing-bit-195701.html

I would say the different number of pins would make quite a difference, to be honest. Personally I wouldn't trust a 2nd hand unit. Get a new one. At least you know it will work, and will be right for your vehicle. As in, it will have the right connector on it;)

There's also the potential issue of stacking the thing with drive only to the front wheels and your insurance company telling you where to go as it's not original. That said, I used to take my prop off during the summer months. All I found was that it felt a bit lighter to drive, but the front...

...doing it right now...:D:D

Good point. Well, mine's been changed twice in two weeks. Do you reckon that's frequent enough?:D

That goes BANG easily if you don't look after it:D Well, the bits outside it, anyway.

I was always led to believe it was a total no-no. I'm no oil eggspurt tho. I refilled mine on Sat with 75W90 after I'd had to take my IRD casing apart. And put it back together. Obviously:D

Just thought I'd wrap this one up for anyone else who has this leak. I stripped the RH driveshaft out on Sat after draining the IRD oil, removed all the brackets and other bits that needed to come off and then split the IRD casing. I could see no real evidence of RTV sealant on the mating...

...and then fill that one with 75W90 like it should be:D

That's not too serious, is it? Thought they'd be more than that TBH.

Is this what mechanics do when they replace an injector, say? Surely not! Didn't happen when I had a new injector this year:confused: The problem, Baron, may just be the nut on that particular pipe needs carefully doing up a bit more. Has it been undone recently?

I'm always perfectly willing to help. Just make yourself known and what the problem pertains to and you'll get what you want. There are four engines on a F/L 1, after all. At a guess I assumed you were referring to one of the diesels. At a further guess I assumed Td4, but you might have been...

Better all round to put some details in your posts then we'd all know without having to trawl through a million other threads. Ha ha HA.

Probably on the wrong forum entirely.