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Sounds more like injector problems to me. Possibly the cam sensor, if it didn't start when warm, but this problem is most likely one or more injectors not pressuring properly. Do a leak back test on it or get a garage to do it and they will diagnose this problem easily if that's what it is...

Amusing, but not too tragic. I was expecting a full blown slanging match before I read through, but then realised it wasn't on AG.

So that's a "No" to Borg and Beck then? :rolleyes:

The turbo vent filter/pipe? Genuinely didn't see that one coming! As did the person who thought they knew better by blanking the thing off, presumably :rolleyes: It does look a bit weird with that little filter dangling down the back of the engine, I realise, but people should know by now to...

Could well be your low pressure fuel pump failing. On your age of vehicle it will be in the rear wheelarch. Possibly in the fuel tank, if you have that one fitted. My under bonnet LP pump (older Td4 vehicle/fuel system layout) started failing and exhibited these exact symptoms.

Was thinking the same. Can you not get the one that broke after a few days replaced under warranty? Is it a genuine LR one? I've had problems with them in the past and had to have a couple of goes until one worked. Unfortunately you're not spoilt for choice here: the LR ones are crap, but...

No photos. I haven't taken it apart yet, but I know it's the water shedder in the tailgate as, when it rains, the water drips out in two places - 1) onto the damper strut and 2) through the screws at the bottom of the door trim panel. Both of which are documented problem areas for leaks in LR...

It got to the point where I could barely shut the door such was the carnage in the pillar:( Yours may not be this tho;) I don't know of a way to tighten it up I'm afraid. Never seen anything obvious there.

Put my now thoroughly dry boot carpet, trim and cubby box lid back in now that I know where the water's getting in: via my craply installed replacement water shedder in the tailgate. Once my new regulator arrives for the NSR door I'll sort them both out.

One of mine used to do that. Turned out two of the spot welds holding the check strap bracket inside the door pillar had parted company. That was an interesting re-weld. Pillar trim off, seatbelt inertia reel out, drivers seat out and then I finally had access (just) to get in there with my...

It's down to number of posts. I forget how many... 100 maybe? Senior moment there ;):)

And no one is on here of course :rolleyes: ;)

Not a great deal of difference there then ;)

With you. I'm definitely not female and I'm not called Amy :D

Indeed it does. Why would this be of concern? Once you raise the window again it self calibrates.

Likewise with your Amy comment!:confused:

Nope. That's an Eddie. Or a Craig in real life.

Just joined. Same avatar as I use on here.

I meant improving it with a carefully considered design, not a Heath Robinson hack :rolleyes: However, I see where you're coming from in this instance. Post your results up once you've done the job :)

That's why I did mine properly and posted a helpful guide a couple of years ago. Bodges annoy me. Why change something that was designed to work as it originally was? If you can improve it, fine, but bodging it is simply malpractice IMHO. If you're competent it'll take 4 hrs, not 6.