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Just looked closely at your pics again. All seem to show that bit missing (a hole) from the thermostat housing next to the coolant pipe flange - that don't look right! Reckon you might be treating yourself to a new housing and stat to make this one watertight as that damage could well be...

A casket? Has somebody died in your engine bay? :eek: But seriously... what you're looking at there is your thermostat housing. Having replaced my thermostat last year (comes in a new plastic housing) I know that the join you see leaking has no gasket on it. The pipe in question protrudes...

BLUE smoke? Isn't that usually burning engine oil?

I'd also check your tyres regarding the state of the tread blocks. The old VCU may have caused the transmission to lock sufficiently that the rear tyres have started to castellate on (probably) the outer bit of the tread. Run your hand over each tyre to confirm this. If this IS the case then...

Tightness on full lock, even with a fully functioning VCU (:D) is normal on a Freelander. It's part and parcel of the 4WD system employed on it. It shouldn't feel TOO tight though. Where did you get your new VCU from, just out of interest, as there are good suppliers and bad. Check the many...

VCR? Nice. Betamax or VHS?

The warning light/horn beep doesn't always occur. Just.... sometimes, which is quite frustrating. Even more frustrating is that it is absolutely baking outside now and the tailgate is working fine. Even facing the sun, as it is. Tis weird, but it does occur exclusively when it's hot and never in...

No probs. I get what you're saying. If I do end up changing the motor though, do I really have to encode it in some way...? Surely it's just a case of swapping the regulator (and guide rails, as most replacements I've seen come as a whole kit) over and plugging it in? :confused:

Yep, the light seems to work OK. If the horn beeps on "lock" and then I unlock it again, get in, shut the door, put the key in the ignition, the "door open" lamp is on. If the horn doesn't beep then the lamp stays off. I shall try self test mode next time it does this (it's fine at the moment)...

Been suffering with the tailgate glass being stuck in the up position of late. No amount of jiggery-pokery with the remote fob or window switch inside will persuade it to lower. As a result the tailgate won't open as the glass cannot drop. The rear wiper intermittently works in this state...

I got a auto dimming mask for about £30 off Ebay recently. I think it was from a company called True Fusion UK, or something like that. It works a treat. It enabled me to test out an arc welder I bought in a French hypermarket for about 20 Euros a few years ago when my mower needed welding...

OK, well I'm a Td4 owner so don't know my way around a 1.8. Plenty of others here do though. The under-engine panel is still the same.

Do as Freelaner sez: practice on some scrap steel first and then spot the nuts in place. It hasn't got to be anything too serious or pretty - it just needs to hold!

Petrol or diesel? We need to know as he differences are huge... Regarding the plastic panel, you don't touch the rivets - the whole frame unbolts with the plastic panel. Bolts are as follows: One either side at the front. Two either side on the front edge of the chassis crossmember (next to...

Well, that's me told :D "Though shalt never make assumptions about LZ members". Right, the standing water issue could be why it wouldn't move today - it could have meant the back brake shoes were temporarily seized on. F/Ls do suffer from handbrake issues (sticking on, usually) and this could...

Introduce yourself, young man. Where are you? What flavour Freelander are you driving (1.8, V6, L-series, Td4)? This probably is a drivetrain issue of some kind, but a bit of background info would be useful. For example, have you ever had your rear diff mounts checked/changed?

I think it would help if you give us a bit of info about your vehicle. Is it a diesel or petrol model? The differences are vast... I'm assuming it's a Td4 as they suffer from low-pressure pump problems. Oh, and probably not a good idea to call it a "jeep" either. Stands to reason on a LR forum...

It's all done with Torx screws into captive nuts, front and back. OP's right - you will get the SRS warning light on with the front passenger seat out and unplugged, but it can be ignored. It's telling you the seat belt pre-tensioner's not working, that's all. It'll go away once you put the seat...

Mine's always done that, and from what I've read I think it's supposed to work like this. I can get mine to drop about 1/4 tho and it will stay there, but this has to start from the closed position and not going from open. I've now got the opposite problem - my window's jammed shut, and no...

Check your anti-rollbar bushes while you're under there and access is good. Dead easy to replace if they are knackered (put some poly ones on there as they'll last a lot longer). Check the three rear diff mounts too as they have a tendency to perish and make lots of knocking noises. Lots on...