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It's all in Hippo's thread. And if you can't find it here, it's on the LRO forum as well. Also posted by someone called Hippo. I suspect it MAY be the same person...;)

I think he means crankcase breather filter.

There is a knack to get it into test mode. You don't get 4secs to do it, more like 1s! Do the self tests if you can. It should give you some pointers.

I've just had a leaking IRD - oil everywhere underneath it, on the crossmember and on the underbelly pan and a very oily smell at low speed. I fixed the leak yesterday and cleaned up all the wet oil - behold, no more smell in the cabin;) You looked under yours recently?

Sounds like my recent tailgate nightmares - I ended up having a new regulator. Only problem was, the new one stopped working after three days! Its replacement seems to be OK over a week on though:D 3-doors do have a "roof on" switch or sensor, which I think can cause problems as well. You...

I concur - they are 135mm on all four doors. My Pioneers in the back were a bit deep, so I had to mount them proud of the door trim. Seems OK as long as the git-kids don't boot them too hard:) Can't comment on a sub as I haven't got one on mine.

I *think* you need to pull the plastic or rubber bezel out round the ignition barrel. Once that's out of the way you should be able to drop the cover down and over the remainder of the ignition barrel. From memory. Be careful you don't knacker the bits round the barrel, as they seemed a bit...

Ace - I can officially reuse all those used ones I've been saving in a biscuit tin over the years:D

I s'pose it makes sense to change it as it's a nyloc nut, or whatever it's called. You are only supposed to use them once. Oh well. My steering wheel's still in place. I'll keep the mole grips handy in case it comes off unexpectedly on a drive from now on:D

Come on mate, tell a fellow Lions fan all about it... (Thread hijack, I know...):D

You're probably right. Where mine's gone, and why the vent pipe had come off is anyone's guess. I ordered some of that sealant earlier. I'll attempt that job soon.

Brilliant - that's the answer I was looking for. I've already got a new driveshaft seal, as I originally thought this oil leak was from there, so I'll pop that in while it's in bits. Do I necessarily need the heat shield, or can I just put a nut on that stud after I've resealed the casing?

My steering wheel has been off quite a few times and I've never changed the nut.

Got there!! Here's the pic.

Yes, I'm being a right dummy here! I shall do that. I've rescaled the image ready to go.

Bollocks. Can't seem to add a picture. Anyone want to give a few hints?

I've had an oil leak from my IRD for a while. It's not from the driveshaft seal, it's coming from the top of the IRD. While under there recently I discovered two things: 1) the breather pipe was disconnected, leaving the spigot to splurge oil out over the IRD, and 2) there's a stud poking out of...

Update: I received the new regulator kit today, fitted it and now............. ............all is well :D The window works, the wiper works, the rear demister works and I'm not inventing new sweary words any more:) Hopefully it'll last longer than three days this time:rolleyes:

I've got a feeling that whatever "disk" you put in there (in the right hole this time...:D)will eventually warp/melt/get ingested into the engine, so you're better off buying a DECENT EGR blanking unit. Don't get a ****ty cheap one off Ebay. See the mass of info about this in other threads. I...

Looked at the wiring in the door and all is OK as far as I can tell. There are further facets to this tale. Today the rear wiper and rear demister have decided to stop working too. OK, I get the wiper, but the demister??:confused: I know all these circuits go through the CCU, but what the hell...