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The under tray bolts on in exactly the same way as far as I am aware. Ignore the rivets. You're looking at 6 bolts at the back of the tray, 2 at the front and some screws also at the front. If anything is different it'll be those screws as the plastic bumper is different to a non-facelift.

Get an ammeter on there and look for a current draw with everything "off". Take out the fuse for the obvious things like the clock, etc. If there is a current being drawn then start unplugging fuses until you locate the offending circuit/s. Once you know that you're then down to checking...

I did mine a few weeks back. Mintex disk and pad set for about 55 notes. All is well and braking is decent. Tbh I replaced them when I first bought the vehicle over 7 years ago with motor factor specials and they weren't quite worn out after that time and about 60K miles. The only reason I put...

Won't start..... Won't turn over? Won't fire? This is fairly crucial info and will aid a potential diagnosis.

80Ah 800CCA on mine.

Yes, regular testing is the way forward. Then again, it should be that way even with a professionally built VCU too ;)

Or just buy a professionally rebuilt one for a couple of hundred quid or so with a guarantee every few years and be done with it. Is it really worth ****ing about with something like this that could end up costing you a grand in parts if you get it wrong?

Good starting point. Cheap to fix too if that's what it is ;)

When you say you hear a clip, do you mean a repeated clicking? If so it's usually down to your battery (you say it's ok, but is it a decent one? I had to put a really heavy duty Bosch one on with lots of CCA) and I also had a starter motor problem. The solenoid contacts can wear out. Good news...

Tell them to stop until they know what they're doing! This in tank pump is accessible through the boot floor. Lift the seats and carpet up to reveal a circular plate. Unscrew it, and then unscrew the big plastic ring that holds the pump/fuel level sender in place. Undo the fuel pipe and...

Look on the Castrol website. I use Magnatec 5W30 C3 in my Td4. It's their equivalent of Dexos2 which is what LR and BMW currently recommend for this engine.

Sounds to me like the piston has corroded which is why you're having trouble pushing it back. I had this on the in-laws car recently and it resulted in new calipers. Consider this: if it takes an awful lot of effort to wind the piston in due to corrosion then it's going to take a fair bit to...

I think it's an 18 litre, 47 cyl, 115 valve jobber. Produces 12bhp and is capable of 0..60 in 6 nanoseconds with a top speed of 59mph. :D

Larf at that I did :D

I don't know the answer, but I'm sure there are threads on this from long ago. Try the useful search facility :rolleyes:

I missed that bit :D:D

Possibly. I'm guessing this is a 1.8? My experiences are all Td4. Plenty on here with petrol vehicles tho so I'm sure someone will have some bright ideas soon :)

Water cooler pipes that go into IRD? I had one of the pair split once and it fired coolant all over the back of the engine, bulkhead, IRD, etc. Does the water you're seeing have any antifreeze in it (is it clear or coloured)? That'll give you a good indication whether it's a coolant leak or you...

I had an injector fail at about that mileage. Worth trying the freezer test on the camshaft sensor. Don't buy one first as they're best part of £100 iirc!

Done a leak back test? I'd say one or more injectors is/are up the swanny. If you still think it's the camshaft sensor, take if off when well warmed up (one bolt), stick it in the freezer for 10 mins, put it back on the vehicle and see if it starts. If it does then it could well be the sensor...