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Could write 3000 words on what to look for... but the scary-expensive things mainly centre around drivetrain and electronics. First off, the V8 and Deeeezil are very different beasts, I'm a V8/LPG person as I believe a RR shouldn't sound like a Massey Fergusson but others love their oil...

My 4.6 will do 24 on a steady run if i'm really (really) carefull, round town, single figures. Don't take the computer reading as gospel but i've found it to be right most of the time. Use maths to work my figures out though :) The v8's are juicey sadly- end of. i've taken a different approach...

I like the EAS on mine. However, I have Koni (red) dampers front and rear and I wouldn't say the ride is particularly 'soft'. Handles beautifully though.

Just don't worry about it. It's like looking on the internet when you have a headache.. and convincing yourself you have a brain tumour!! Many P38s are completely reliable and they tend to be the ones that are very well looked after. No £60k car will be cheap to run, especially with the...

Excellent news that you have it back and (hopefully) sorted! Sounds like they threw a whole load of new parts at it too- which is nice :) I must say, the wiring on these supposedly rugged 4x4's is pathetically thin and suceptable to damage..

Can get 22/23mpg on petrol on a reasonably steady run, with the odd wait at traffic lights etc. Round the houses, probably 15 at the very best, stuck in traffic... 10? This is from my calculations. Fuel computer currently reading 18.1, which is a mixture of all driving really. 4.6 HSE...

Yeah gone crazy :( 89ppl in some places! LPG = R.I.P

Mighty fine economy there! I'm not as good, I can see 21 or 22 ish on a run if i'm very carefull, 15 or 16 is the norm for me with the usual mix of round town and 'A' roads etc. Best thing is, emissions are now MoT passable :-)

Brilliant news Scott, mine has been the same now for a few hundred miles and feels great! The car (and your bank balance..) will thank you for all the blood sweat and tears.

Yes thats right, although you won't see much with the a multimeter, just figures that go up and down, around every second, between 0-5v for the GEMS Titania sensors. You're basically seeing if they are 'switching' as opposed to sitting still at a certain voltage. According to RAVE, a steady...

Well each lambda has a built-in heating element/ circuit that enables the sensor to work properly. Although the ECM chooses when to complete the circuit, I'd imagine it's on a lot of the time. If you check out the wiring diagrams, you'll be able to trace the wiring/ colours and make sure all...

It may be the o2 sensors, but you need to check out what they're doing, you can get an ok idea with a multi-meter, a better idea with a scope. I'm reluctant to advise changing them because chaps like eightinavee etc are way more knowledgeable than moi and they're not overly cheap.. It worked...

I wouldn't think so..

Filled up with 72.9 last night. That is now the cheapest I can find round here. Same station was 65.9 before Christmas.

Mines been without CATs for probably 7 years now. As above, there is NO legal requirement to phsically have a catalytic convertor fitted under your vehicle, regardless of whether it left the factory with one or not. What you must comply with, is the emissions test which is easily achievable...

Actually it's because the CO limits for vehicles running on 'alternative fuels' are higher than petrol only cars! Mind you, mine runs 0.6% CO on petrol at idle (no CATs) and I'd expect the LPG reading to be even less.

Regarding scanners that should be able to reset values, I think the one the chap used on mine was an 'autodiagnose' or something? It was sort of 'T' shaped with handles on either side. Scott- I think a reset can't hurt. Especially with a check and clear of any lingering fault codes at the...

Yeah the infamous Landyzone '****-take reputation' only seems to work when those with a post count of 2000+ want it to!! :biggrin1: Re the continual rich-running, have you had the fuel trims reset?

For that sort of cash, I'd take a risk on a 2nd hand compressor from a breakers, change the reciever/ dryer and have the a/c system charged by a pro.

Try the front ball joints for any movement or 'lift'. You'll want a big bar in there to test them. While you're doing that, examine the rubber bushes for deteriation.