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Just avoid the cheap blue-box valve stem caps. The set I bought recently were absolute rubbish compared to the (170k) originals. They didn't even fit on the valve properly. You should do the rear crank seal if you value your driveway too but if you're in a rush and don't want to spend any money...

Looking good. Your 'sill' sections are very good for the age of the vehicle (unless you've already replaced the lengths that run under the doors). Currently doing the same job on my 1990 CSW and they are a fair bit worse :eek:

I wondered what ratio it is mixed at too.. but I'm thinking it must be at least 50/50 because it's safe down to -36 degrees. Good enough for anything the UK can throw at us.

As above, Euro Car Parts have a fairly good Easter sale on at the moment- free delivery makes it better if you can wait a couple of days. 5L of blue antifreeze, (concentrate, not pre-mixed) is £11.98. 5L of blue antifreeze mixed stuff is £4.79, again delivered free. I, like you wanted the...

I did read that thread you found Dippy, it's very interesting and I think I will replace my pipe with clear. That chap's problem was slightly different to mine though, I have no misfire or smoke, just a raised idle. I might look at a set of new injectors, but at around £400, I may have to live...

I'll keep at it. Sounds like it's probably a common thing but is accepted as 'ok' because the vehicles are very old now. I don't mind the problem as such, it's just if it's a symptom of something more serious- then I'd like to find out what's up. Typically, mine's been perfect today :smash:

I agree Dippy, must be something like that.. but I can't find any air leaks at all :confused: am living with it at the moment, doesn't seem to be getting any worse- just irritating. Only happens when the temperature is in the middle of the gauge, which isn't happening a lot at the moment :eek:

Hi all, annoying problem with my 200tdi at the moment- When up to operating temp, (just under the 1/2 mark on the gauge) the idle speed plays about. It's totally random, sometimes it sits as it always used to at 800ish rpm. More often than not however, it starts revving up to 1100/1200 rpm...

Good luck with it mate.

I don't mean to make fun of you.. but honestly, if you get it running properly you'll probably (definitely) fix the problems you're having! I bought two NTK sensors for mine, they were around £50 each and are of fine quality. Get another Y/downpipe, second hand will be fine. No point messing...

Seriously? And you're considering modifications costing £££s? I'd certainly consider fixing the bloody thing first. You may even get more mpg :hysterically_laughi I used to manage 21mpg on a run with my 4.6, but that was trying really, really hard. You could have a look on the Hypermiler...

Just re-read and realised you have a 'fender.. don't think they ever had the fusible links, but I may be wrong. I'd trace the wire like James says above, can't be anything too taxing. Assume all the earths are present and correct :)

Check the fusible links in the wiring loom that tuns along the o/s inner wing (peel back all the insulation and check for corrosion). Mine was sat for 8 years and had all sorts of stupid electrickery issues. I removed all the cheapo in-line fuse wire and replaced it all with a fuse box with...

Do you have a friend with a Halfords Trade card? Because it brings their own-make blades down to £3 each... and they are excellent quality.

I think a lot depends on the quality of the fuel.. I run 100% bio all year round in my 200tdi but add a splash of unleaded when the temperature drops below 0 degrees. It starts instantly, hot or cold, but so far only seen -5 this winter. I've noticed less diesel knock when a bit of petrol is...

No problems, good luck with the repair :)

Correctly functioning thermostat is essential in this weather.. if you need to replace it, I'd only go for a genuine one.. especially as the FL TD4 'stat is such a nightmare to change :eek:

I can do it if you want, tomorrow is possible as long as there isn't too much snow !

That won't do it up again. Tightening properly is critical otherwise it loosens and trashes the crank nose. I made a holding tool out of angle iron, it does the job but you can't beat the custom-made tool like the one difflock sells.

The hardest part of the job is undoing the crank pulley bolt.. and then doing it up again! It is up to some ridiculous torque. If you don't have the means to stop the crank rotating, or indeed withdraw the bottom pulley from the crank nose with a puller- let your garage do it.