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'Probably' just the bias spring, which is easy and cheap to replace. No guarantees until you have a look though.

Do check the adaptors, both early and late setups need them, but obviously they're of different design. They are a cone/ taper fit in the rad and if you don't have to disturb them, I wouldn't. Look forward to seeing some more pics.

The Defender one is your best bet then. Get everything you can under the bonnet, particularly the air cleaner, all the air hoses, radiator and particularly its frame, etc.

There's nothing in it, the engines are more or less identical, with the exception of a bracket under the cylinder head nuts on the Defender application. The gearboxes are the same too, but the Defender has a different gear change setup, which you'll want to use. Use the complete 90 assembly, but...

Oil cooler hoses can be a bit of a nightmare- there's a couple of ways of doing it but everything has to match. The main issue is how the fittings seal, early- face fit, later- 'o' ring seal. I'm getting all parts together to use the earlier, face-fit setup. using a 19J filter housing...

Yes you're quite right, the 19J alt is 55a. My reasons for using it was mainly because the 110 alternator was nearly new and plugged in with no fussing. I also run 200 (and 300..o_O) TDI Discoverys so thought the original 200 alternator would make a good spare! Unfortunately I don't get much...

I don't think a furred up rad would do that.. but you can check to see if the rad is getting hot all over (if it will run long enough to get up to temp without spewing all the coolant out). Any cold patches on the rad mean that section is not doing anything.

Thanks Lynall, I had the alternator shield too but am using the alternator from the 110 so I can fit the original wiring loom without cutting off the plug. The 19J alternator needs 'clocking' to fit the 200TDI Disco engine, but it's just a case of removing the long bolts, turning the casing...

The problem with the 300TDI is that the water pump is mounted high up, so any significant coolant loss means the remaining water stops circulating very quickly.. I think it's very possible you've cracked the head :(

Sounds good. I have the custom Steve Parkers bottom radiator hose, but am using standard Defender 200TDI parts for the rest. Intercooler hoses are still not sorted. One step at a time for me!!

The reflective foil is actually the standard sound deadening. Maybe only fitted to county station wagons. It's about a cm thick. I don't think it makes a lot of difference to be honest and makes the downpipe even closer to the body.. Clocking the turbo is pretty simple. I didn't remove anything...

I've just realised, I'd posted a picture of my 200TDi engine in this thread- https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/200tdi-conversion-pics-of-some-fiddly-bits.307637/#post-3858500 with the block drain plug in full view! Definitely easiest to crawl underneath I'd say..

Probably easiest from underneath. It's under the exhaust manifold isn't it? You'll probably find you get most of it after removing the bottom hose off the waterpump. I'd say that's about the lowest point anyway.

Good tips. As someone who's spent months doing the best 200TDi conversion I can to my 1990 110 CSW, I'd say it's not a job to be rushed if you want it to be reliable. I've been using the brilliant guide on the Glencoyne site- http://www.glencoyne.co.uk/tdiguide.htm It sure is close on the...

You can leave the 'stat in place if you're worried about the bolts snapping. What I would do, it dump all the coolant out you can and fill up with clean water. Go for a run so the stat opens and the fresh water dilutes anything you can't get out by draining. Then, when it has all cooled, drain...

I recently fitted these seals to my 200TDi Defender. I wasn't sure which way round to fit them either, but put the flatter side in contact with the head, and the ridged side on the injector- my thought being that as the injector is tightened down, it'll squash the ridge and make an air-tight...

It's full of diesel! Just put something underneath to catch the fuel. There's nothing else behind the screw.

It may well be the blanking plug on the side- IIRC it's a round plug with an allen key head? I'm pretty sure there's an 'o' ring in there to seal it. Other than that, you may just have to wash the pump body as best you can with thinners or degreaser and keep an eye on it.

The nose seal is readily available on ebay, you just need to know the Bosch part no- ;) 2 460 283 001. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Diesel-fuel-pump-shaft-seal-Audi-A3-A4-A6-1-9TDI-66KW-81-KW-1Z-AHH-AHU-AFN-AVG-/171288967127?hash=item27e19e37d7:g:SA8AAOSwEeFVUgda I've changed a few of these now...

Check your valve clearances first.