Search results

Coolant eruption at first glance - I'm sure it looks better in the flesh as it were:):)

Started it today no problem after 10 days - and realised that the faulty drivers door lock actuator was the reason I've had so many problems with flat batteries.

Well, yes most of us have two cars..................:)

Pleased for you.

So sorry to read your latest news - and I do so hope that this awful situation that you find yourself in will be resolved in the appropriate manner and speedily also, to boot.

Seems odd that all the comps are even. 100 is too low tbh. You'll be able to run it on paraffin.:)

Give it a whiff of Eezy Start - if it tries or does run on that its def fuel - have you tried bleeding the injector pipes?

Ah, Easy Fixes.........yes, I remember those. (Sighs and gazes out of window)

I think - for what it's worth - that the P38's star is going to shine soon - and brightly. I drive for a living and see quite a few around in good nick, some working pulling heavy trailers and others just carrying their owners around in comfort. The rough old ones now have gone and the ones that...

And patience - and lots of it.

I would be tempted to get the engine stripped by an independent engineer so that he can send in an official report. To fail after 20k is simply not good enough tbh for any recon never mind supposedly top flight ones. I would have thought that, purely for quality control purposes, they would want...

Fitted the new one today - never used Island before but they were the cheapest and free nextday delivery as well. Impressed. All's good now and yes I have a used latch which I'm more than happy to ship to you and don't worry about postage - it's a fair trade for your advice. Just pm me your...

Certainly tidier than having two great hoses over the back of the engine bay.

My coolant take off for the lpg vapouriser is from the heater hoses also and the unit is mounted a little lower though not much it has to be said. Maybe a certain volume of flow is required - 8 mm isn't much.

Well Marty, you're right - because I carefully put it all back together and everything worked a treat. Adjusted the new striker plate for a good alignment, replaced the door card, opened and closed the door on numerous occasions and locked and unlocked it ditto with both the key and the remote...

Well just had it all apart and it all became clear. The (partially rusty) superlock motor decided to expire in the locked position but the regular one was still trying to operate. It would get so far until the superlock fulcrum got in the way of the quadrant. Took drive off bottom of superlock...

Thanks for your post. When unlocking with the remote the whole car unlocks and on the drivers door the lock motor moves and the sill button moves up but the door remains firmly latched and the car immediately locks up again It won't unlock with the key in the door. I tried pulling the exterior...

I'd put tappet reviver through it, for a tenner it's worth a punt. However at 220k miles they're going to be pretty weary by now. You might have to get the spanners out.

Try filling the system up with the engine running and make sure all the hoses around the top of the engine get hot, heater works etc. Then do a block test, this will show any burnt gases in the system, so will eradicate possible cracks in the heads or failed head gasketry if it negative. A...

Say no more.......