Search results

Sometimes you have to move slightly forward to get the light to come on, which is normal.The light on mine won't come on at all, caused by a worn linkage. You have to remove the centre console , gear knobs and gaiters, drill out rivets to get to the linkage. I bought the new parts for £30 but...

What about the key fob? You will need that to start the engine because of the immobilizer. I had to get a new fob from the local main dealer, it cost £150 a few years ago.

You could try emailing the KCC rights of way people. I found a similar situation in East Sussex, and the ESCC rights of way people were able to shed light on it.

Welcome

Welcome

Welcome

The same has just happened to my D1. Turned out to be fractured clutch plate. But as mentioned above, try differential lock to rule out broken half shaft etc.

You might want to check the security of the fixing rod that holds the tensioner. It screws into an aluminium housing. It can get loose, I had to replace mine with a bolt and screw it in a bit further, I also had to use the penny trick to stop the squealing too.

The clutch has gone on my Disco. As far as I can tell from the service history it's done 216,000 miles. The gearbox is now out at the local garage, the clutch does not look worn at all but the splined bit in the middle rotates when it's clamped in a vice. The spigot bearing has shattered too...

Thanks for your advice guys. I changed the drivers side this afternoon, did it much quicker, all done in 3 hours. Even with a 12ton press I had to hacksaw 3 out of the 4 bushes. To put the new ones in I used 2 tab over wheel bearing washers, an old radius arm bush and a 52mm socket. Tab washers...

Just changed the passenger side radius arm bushes with metalastic genuine bushes. It's sorted the wandering steering a treat. My question is do I need to change the other side or wait till they go. I've got the parts, but had a bit of a struggle even with a 12t press! Mainly because I used...

Have you tried lubricating the mechanism that clamps around the pin on the body, and lubricating the pin too. I also trimmed the plastic coating off the lock on mine as that was causing problems. I think the outer handle can be adjusted from inside the door.

See my thread on 17th March, you don't need to change the lock barrel. I bought a door pull for rear drivers passenger side for £15 on ebay. RR classic will fit too. Punch out the pin with a nail and swap the door pulls over. Took a leisurely hour!

You can reset the alarm system by pressing the lock button on the key fob 6 times, details in the owners handbook

When I ran mine without the fan, I noticed that the temp gauge sat slightly higher than normal. I was thinking that the gauge on yours could have dropped after leaving the stationary traffic and you drove at 70 with the increased air flow.

I had similar when I connected my trailer up and tested it just before setting off on holiday. It was the brake light switch just above the brake pedal. It was dirty, just needed cleaning,it took all of 30 seconds.

Alternator or fan belt tensioner is my guess

The handbrake light will flicker if the brake fluid level is low. You say the viscous fan is removed, do you have a kenlow fan? If not, it sounds like normal operation especially with no viscous fan fitted. I used to run mine without in the winter.

Not sure how common this is. But you could try lying in the back, pulling the internal handle whilst applying pressure with your feet and see if the lock frees up. I think I've had this with the tailgate before, lifting the black button whilst pushing might help. You've got to try everything...

Sounds like a combination of heaving, wiggle latches and central locking operation may help to shift it