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You are quite right, however this thread is 15 years old :eek:

I just went on moneysupermarket and got a quote for a 2019 3.0 and it was 550 quid, the top 20 results were under a grand. Suggest moving from Kent :p

Britpart stuff is hit and miss, some stuff is fine and some isn't. Decent clutch parts arent that dear

Also bear in mind heavy duty clutches will have a LR fitment pressure plate which may not fit your flywheel. I dont have any experience with the Isuzu engine so have no idea

Oh and there is a little clip which holds the slave pushrod into its socket on the fork

I dont know about the lighter spring and yes a heavy duty clutch will be heavier. I have heard that the Borg & Beck clutches are ok, but any brand name one should be OK. Probably a good time to avoid the blue box either way. Theres not a lot more in the bellhousing thats not on your list- just...

Clutch will likely be LR clutch with Isuzu pressure plate, but its really one of those situations where strip first then order parts is best. Stay away from cheap release bearings as they don't last and either get a reinforced release fork or weld a plate on a standard one to sterngthen where it...

As above plus the oil leaks from the T series HG are very common, from memory 1 corner almost always leaks and doesnt have any effect on running other than making a bit of a mess

You may be lucky and it's not too many things to change. When it happened to me it was the steering damper only working in one direction. There was no detectable play anywhere else, Hoping to get it back on the road soon after over 15 years laid up though, so I'll likely be doing a lot of bushes...

When its first connected it just shows voltage, you then have to press the button to select bike/car/snowflake before it charges. It does auto 6/12v for bikes so dunno why it cant just charge without input. Apart from that I like it, displays voltage and theres a 3 or 4 bar symbol for charging...

I have a smart charger from Lidl but if there is an interruption to the supply it stops charging until you press the button on it

I remember my first time too, doing about 50-55 and the slightest bump in the road upset it. For those that havent experienced it, try to imagine your vehicle suddenly having square wheels :confused:

It's often caused by a combination of things, every little bit of wear adds up. Swivels pins, all front end bushes and steering damper need to be checked out

Should be a good fit but not so tight it needs a battering to get it on. Is the hole for the alignment pin the problem maybe?

I believe you are meant to check the level with the engine running after cycling through the gears

Whilst less powerful and less refined I'd choose the L series over the TD4 for reliability. As long as both timing belts have been done there's unlikely to be much wrong with the engine

Sounds reasonable to me given weight and engine size

https://new.lrcat.com/

https://www.kbctools.ca/itemdetail/1-368-06-24 Possibly another option is a lathe die head? Unlikey to find one cheaply tho

I wear glasses to drive and don't have a glare problem, although the optician normally manages to upsell me the magical coatings:rolleyes:. Certainly better than driving without glasses anyway