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it's only been a month. chill out and give it time :)

oem is 90quid a ball

alternatively, would a larger, well placed oil cooler be better?

we do, turn your adblocker off :D .. but don't commit clickfraud.. it's naughty ok

wipe off excess, brake cleaner it all and get the seals/balls fixed :)

you can buy battery boxes in a premade flatpack, then you rivet them in

They all have part numbers. I cba hunting out the part book atm, but see if you look here http://www.rimmerbros.co.uk/Item--i-GRID010601 The real part numbers will be like RTC3022 . You need to find your years model/part number then check your fav shop.. lrdirect, island4x4, etc etc

remember a temp gauge and sensor need to be matched :)

if you want power, i'd stick a different engine in tbh

I emailed bilt last year.. here's a reply you might find useful

fyi, good 300 doesn't need glows atm. i still haven't wired mine up yet from a year or so ago. i'd look at fuel leakback to start with. filters, sedimenter, leak off pipes, holes, etc etc try hand priming the lift pump before you start.

what do you mean by 'won't start'? does it run over nice and fast but won't fire? it won't turn over at all? since it starts from the beemer, I'll presume it's leccy and earth as stated above. go get a jump lead and stick one end to your battery neg and another to your engine block. does it...

plus you need to paint in warmer weather.. so for you... aaaaages away

haven't a puma either i'm afraid. check the radio and other bits work, could be on the same fuse.

tell the boss to take it to a garage and get someone competent next time.. as this is outside your job description :P

pressure increases the boiling point. doesn't make a difference to the temperature of the fluid. if you don't have pressure or antifreeze (which also raises the boiling point) then you'd get localised boiling and evaporation (steam)

may i be one of the first ones to say.. have a search.. mentioned plenty of times before now, how do you define reliability? and do you have snow down there?

personally, i'd keep away from kseal and others.. if they block your narrow waterways or rad.. it'll hurt. i'd look at airlock as above re temp gauge and cold blower. hard cold starting and faltering at roundabout.. i'm presuming it's not run on veg. i'd look at lift pump and also check your...

a later one .. as in early defender 90/110? series chassis, leafs, dash, etc etc .. deffo not an early defender

liquid steel isn't like k seal btw, it's a metal epoxy used for repairing steel.. the guy is nuts