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And the adaptions will all be back where they were after 200 miles. If it is a bad solenoid they're fairly easy todo. Just time consuming getting to them.

If the garage who did the timing belt were land rover specialist's as you say then I'm amazed that they didn't inform you about the oil pump risks. Are they the same people who you have the warranty with? Having said that I doubt you could ever prove it was thier fault, they probably either...

Sorry it was 5000 miles, I tend to do less than 10k yearly so if not 5k then I'll just change twice a year. This is not just a D3 thing I did the same on my TDI and Td5, I do a lot of short journeys and the cars get abused as family workhorses so regular oil changes are the least I should do I...

I've been chaging oil every 5k in the D3. With the top mounted oil filter its actually an easy clean job to do. Only bugger is removing the engine undertray, but you can get under and do this with the car in off road height without jacks or stands. I usually put 5.5L in then start, stop and let...

Oil filter collapsed internally?

You've snapped the aux drive belt, not the timing belt (the td5 have a timing chain). Fix whatever went wrong fit new belt and I'm sure the engine will be fine.

Doing just the belts is quite an easy job, not really any more difficult than doing a TDI for example. The problem with doing the oil pump at home is you MUST lock the flywheel and you MUST get the crank seal installed correctly. To do this you need to spend several £100 on locking tools and...

The reason people say change the pump anyway even if it is a new type is there is a bit of an old wife's tale going around that they wear out. Thing is so many people have made the pump over the years that some of the cheap ones may be wearing out, but I'd be confident that a new design genuine...

I ran dexron 2 in both my r380s, did 250k miles between the two of them and neither ever gave problems. Just changed every other year and made sure the breather wasn't clogged.

You need a code reader with the D3, otherwise everything turns into an expensive guessing game.

V8 L320 RRS or FFRR. Oh 2k I thought you said 20k in reserve :D

Yeah you need to replace that hub, the crush spacers can only be torqued down once, the bearings will die quickly.

IMO best D3 would be a late V8, unfortunately those with them don't want to sell them.

I had to weld a a couple of thick washers over the mounts and use longer bolts with my tdi in the end, the holes had worn egg-shaped.

I changed my yuasa which was toasted for a hankook last year. The hankook has been great so far. The old battery was reading 11.6 standing and was only just managing to start the disco, was getting the usual engine system fault, park brake fault and special programs not available during...

Check those voltages again with a second meter, if they are genuine readings then you have a battery and/or alternator problem. D3s don't tolerate bad batteries, you can get all kind of faults

First thing on my mind would be an oil level check on the gearbox

Personally I would be returning it to the 'mate' and having my money back.

He didn't say the plod said anything about it being 'correctly registered'. They just said it wasn't nicked. If they weren't specialists then they probably just ran the plate and maybe checked the last month of local stolen vehicles. It's clearly a stolen 90 300tdi that's been given the log...

The V8 D3s are getting more sought after definitely, I looked at maybe 10 discos before buying my tdv6 last year, one was V8 but was in a sorry state. The fact that they are LEZ exempt helps as well. The prices are going silly, look at the 55 plate V8 on auto trader... £20K. No really.