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I've put a motorcycle charger on mine, and whilst it trickle cahrges it it doesn't fully charge it up. I wouldn't leave the car with the battery unconnected for any lenght of time though, the electronics may be sensitive to 16V, but I'd say they are more sensistive to 0V! I've used some...

There are some on eBay that come with the cable for plugging intot he OBD socket, they are cheap ~£30, they are limited in what information they provide but that is to be suspected I suppose.

Where does it keep it, in the glovebox, 'cos it ain't in the engine?!

Poor performance and lots of white smoke are also symptoms of a blown turbo.

Have you had 3 pumps because you replace with second-hand ones?

Hard to diagnose engine noises on a forum, could you give a bit more info on the condition/mileage of the engine? Air bubbles forming around the injector doesn't sound good though!

There is a fuel stop solenoid on the FIP, are you ble to check that is working correctly?

I lost a rear mud flap to a carwash, £35 or a a bit of moulded rubber?

Nice alloys you have, wish I could find a decent set of Mondials..

What happens when it gets an EAS Fault and drops onto the bump stops? Then you are going nowhere.

This would be my suggestion too, I'm having similar misting at the moment, I meant to unblock them over the weekend but didn't.

He's been doing it for ages, it is a scam to get a live email address that he can sell on, so whatever you do don't send an email to him...

They sell desiccant in Tesco now, that's the best for drying out electronics, stick it in a sealed box/bag with it. And apparently leaving it in a warm place, like on a hot water tank, is the worst thing you can do.

And after you do all that, get your torque wrench re-calibrated.

Petrol is cheap in Malaysia anyway isn't it? So the idea of keeping the V8 is good advice. If it's okay bodywise, i.e. not rusted in the usual spots (rear wheel arches, sills, boot floor) then I'd say you have a chance. I'm all for restorations, it is a classic after all, as long as you're...

Agree, if its a one off job, which it should be, then you're better off dropping the tank than cutting a hole in the floor. Suppose its a safer job on a diesel than a petrol, but just observe the usual precautions.

No, believe you have to undo the crankshaft bolt to change that, and that was something I wanted to avoid! It may be easier than I thought, on an auto you'll have to lock up the flywheel, and then you'll need the mother of all breaker bars I expect. I fully expect the water pump to play up now...

It a relatively simple job once you've dropped the tank, then its easy to change the pump. I recommend you get a new one, about £115 on-line, if that is the problem. If you have bubbles in the fuel lne between the filter and the injection pump, and if the engine will run with over 1/3 of a...

Unforgiveable...

The part is correct, the air-con pulley is separate and bolts onto the front of the crankshaft pulley, you don't need a new one of these. I replaced mine on the weekend, went relatively smoothly, managed to get the viscous fan off for the first time, its a left-hand thread btw. The pulley...