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I did the same, released a bit of air out, down to about 20 psi iirc, I also put a bit of grease on the wheel well to help it get out again.

Check your air filter too, if this is blocked it will lead to overfuelling on acceleration. I was going to ask how much oil are you using, as some engines just drink more than others, but 3l a week? That is a lot!

On mine there is a sticker on the rocker cover giving what I think is the engine number, it does match the log book, however it starts with 2...., not 3... as RAVE states - I've always wondered why that is?

I've got a price list for 1998 which has all those details, but not an invoice as such.

Clogged air filter, collapsed turbo hoses, blocked intercooler; also check vacuum pipe between manifold and MAP sensor on fuel filter bracket as if this isn't working it limits fuel delivery.

The Island4x4 airbags do come as Dunlops, and they are OEM, they just don't have 'Land-Rover' written on them like Genuine Parts do.

Definitely worth repairing, a soft dash TDi will be a collectors items one day, though doesn't look like the last owner thought so. I had an air suspended Classic, when in fault mode all 3 lights on the up/down/inhibit buttons flash, then the lower one stays lit, obviously it doens't respond...

That sounds about right - something crazy happens on eBay to make people pay over the odds. Good luck with your rebuild.

The kit comes with pictures and instructions in Dutch, what they don't tell you is the piston top can be levered off to remove the seal - took me ages to figure that out - that shouldn't affect you though if you bought the piston/cylinder kit.

How cheap, give us a number?! I've been looking at them go on eBay recently, and the diesels still fetch a fair amount even for basket cases.

Call you local main dealer, the cost may suprise you, I don't think they are that much!

How is 25mpg not a larger number than 18mpg then?

I bought a set of discs and pads from Paddock for £50, as you can imagine they were not Genuine Parts or even OEM, but they've done 24k miles with no disc wear and pads have plenty of life still in them.

Mine does something similar, when the torque convertor locks up and you accelerate there is a groaning from the transmission somewhere, all to do with harmonics and vibrations etc. Assuming all the joints are good, do you have the harmonic vibration dampers on the axles?

That's what gives the low mpg figures, the near constant acceleration of a 2+ ton car, especially in urban areas getting up to 30-40mph all the time. Best performance is gained from keeping it in good shape, staying on top of servicing, clean out your intercooler, and fitting a power box.

Research how to make biodiesel and it'll explain it in the first few steps, don't quote me on testing pH, but testing the fat content requires methanol titration which is messy business. Guess an easier test would be to buy some and leave it sit, see if anything settles out; and mix it with...

Research how to make biodiesel and it'll explain it in the first few steps, don't quote me on testing pH, but testing the fat content requires methanol titration which is messy business. Guess

A new pump is £120, fitting it is a DIY job, otherwise factor in labour costs of 2-3 hours. If I drove my RR in the Alps I want it to be in perfect condition! There is no suction system on the pump, there's no pick-up pipe, if it doesn't deliver fuel its because it isn't working.

If you buy some you can test it for pH and fat content etc just like you would do before processing vegetable oil. It might seem like a lot of effort but would put your mind to rest.

What are you trying to do, get rid of the warning lights?