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The boot floor is steel and spot welded in place, so it'll be a right faf to remove, but it is a RRC the old tin worms might of had a nibble under the carpet so it might just peel right out without much effort ;) Easiest way is to drop it out the bottom, and for that you need to remove the 2...

Yep a necessity for all the ZF 4hp's. 8nm :)

Slow. But generally quite a good unit, from what i understand. The rust i'd be inclined to have a good look at, rare to see a rusty P38, is it surface or one hard poke away from becoming a series of big holes ;)

any codes?

You can use a tape measure or calibration blocks, old broom handle cut up works wonders ;)

That would sort all of your LR problems simultaneously, however it's usually easier to burn out the bushes and hacksaw through the sleeve and pound out the remains with a punch or chisel ;)

no 2010-12,

Most likely the trans cooler/lines if it has been sprayed everywhere by the fan, remove the grill and slam panel 4 13mm bolts and you can look at the trans cooler, with a torch ;)

Right, no plashing m&s lights?

the exterior control shaft that passes through the XYZ switch and shift controller via the cable will allow manual shifts to R and D, 3,2, 1. This will give you a forward gears and reverse. I suspect you have a mechanical problem. Take the small inspection plate off of the bottom of the bell...

trying to narrow down potential faults,

Does the gear position indicator on the dash display correctly?

Send it down to manual "1" and see if anything happens.

indeed, Bosch make a good 2nd best ;)

Magnacore of very good.

They can build a great 4 6 12 but they seem to get hung up on V8's and V10s ;)

the M62 yes Vanos and Timing chain issues 2002-2005 are not the best. ;)

RRS is one to avoid IMO, L322 if you must, the 4.4 TDV8 or any of the petrols 2006-2012 are a safe bet :) Rust and electrical gremlins. Avoid the 3.6 TDV8. :)

:vb-wave:

Get another P38 :)