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  1. Henry_b

    P38 4.6l gems blown head gasket

    Elring gaskets. I'd suggest ARP studs which makes the job far easier and the likely hood of pulling a thread out of the block is greatly reduced, expensive though £230 for the last set I bought. Engine looks relatively clean, but that's no consolation pull out each tappet in turn and inspect...
  2. Henry_b

    A real off roader

  3. Henry_b

    Hello to everyone! Help me choose

    90/110 and defender prices have gone up over the past few years, there are a few below £10k online but i'd imagine they're not perfect. You have to realise that a minter is going to run you quite a few thousand over that, unless you buy a basket case and restore it which truth be told will...
  4. Henry_b

    Hello to everyone! Help me choose

    Not for £8000 having a quick look through ebay it seems prices are north of £10,000 and don't keep in mind shiny paintwork and a large price tag don't guarantee a good motor :) Have you considered a Discovery?
  5. Henry_b

    Hello to everyone! Help me choose

    The 90/110 and Defender tend to be mechanically quite durable, it's the chassis that tends to suffer with most examples on their original chassis being a patchwork quilt of plates over rot holes, best look carefully.. As for the L322 is you're steadfast on having one go for a petrol engined...
  6. Henry_b

    discovery 300tdi

    eye widening, don't think about it when you're driving it... Same for my Nan and her classic mini obsession, had them for 50yrs never thought about how much of a death trap they were/are, fold like a paper cup when crashed.
  7. Henry_b

    discovery 300tdi

    Yeah bulkhead around the bonnet hinges and the floors rot out with the swiss cheese paper thin crap chassis... Lovely cars, great drive but far too rot prone for my liking, i do miss mine apart from the rust... ;)
  8. Henry_b

    discovery 300tdi

    The D2 is the more rust prone of the two, D2's go in both the body and chassis, in my experience atleast.
  9. Henry_b

    *Urgent* D2 V8 Thor 4.0 won't start.

    yes on mine you can't do anything with it, it's a blank. CPS most likely, if in doubt pulling a plug or 2 will be far quicker than pulling the upper intake off..
  10. Henry_b

    *Urgent* D2 V8 Thor 4.0 won't start.

    My money is on the crank sensor.. :) ;)
  11. Henry_b

    *Urgent* D2 V8 Thor 4.0 won't start.

    I tried to unscrew it, just a blank on mine could of been different on yours, ;) :)
  12. Henry_b

    *Urgent* D2 V8 Thor 4.0 won't start.

    Crank position sensor is common, also check the coolant temp with diag as the sensor can fault to 140c and stop the motor running.. :)
  13. Henry_b

    *Urgent* D2 V8 Thor 4.0 won't start.

    tis blank unfortunately :)
  14. Henry_b

    *Urgent* D2 V8 Thor 4.0 won't start.

    Nope there isn't a schrader valve on the thor.. Easier way is to pull a sparkplug and see if they're wet with fuel..
  15. Henry_b

    P38A EAS some more questions!

    My pump used to run constantly, a little investigation turned up no leaks. Turns out the pump was worn out and running near enough constantly to get the system up to the cut off pressure, £20 rebuild kit fixed it ;) :) A leak on the storage side wouldn't cause her to drop, there are a few ways...
  16. Henry_b

    What did you do with your Range Rover today

    thanks :cool: :cool::banana:
  17. Henry_b

    What did you do with your Range Rover today

    Started her up for the first time in 5 months, fired up first go, moved her out of the shed and gave it a wash down....... :) Back in the shed now awaiting parts.
  18. Henry_b

    P38 4.0 Infamous 4HP22

    Pump failure by the sounds.
  19. Henry_b

    Read this everyone

    :vb-eyes:
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