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Hypothetically, if one had removed the engine from a DSE, does it make sense to change the flex plate as a preventative measure, given they aren't terribly expensive? Also, I'm actually struggling to find the flex plate listed for a diesel P38 - I assume it's not the same as the V8s?

Cheers!

I'm putting the head back on my DSE and I have a query about the setting of the camshaft sprocket. RAVE indicates that the sprocket should be torqued up before removing the locking pin from the chain tensioner. I don't understand this, because with the tensioner held back there is, of course...

You can't post that without pics!!!

You wouldn't need to lift a Defender either.

Does it need lifting? I've done propshafts, rear diff and transfer box VC (on my RRC) without any lifting required.

Consider that many new sporty cars actually use a fake engine noise played through the stereo speakers because the engines are actually so quiet, BMW ///M cars for example.

Isn't the "which is better" argument somewhat pointless? Different people like different things. There is no right or wrong. End of. Now, can anyone tell me whether blue is a better colour than red? I can't decide.

I think he meant to help with the head gasket. Which it also won't help with! :)

If you can follow instructions and have a reasonable toolkit it's doable. It probably comes down to confidence in yourself and being sensible as much as anything. You will need some specific tools for the timing chain and tensioners - I think I paid about £60 for them from memory.

At a guess you could have cooked the head gasket and have no compression.

Can you give some more info on this please?

Have you downloaded RAVE? That will give you the complete set of steps.

Wow, this thread is getting a little tetchy.

There's a colon missing out of the embedded link. Whoever set it up has entered http//www.ryvalgas.co.uk/ but there needs to be a colon after http and before the two slashes for it to work.

P1551 is ICV open circuit (nothing to do with alarm!). I'd suggest that your idea of replacing the idle control valve is a good place to start. Or, rather, check the wiring to it first, then replace.

I don't think anyone was meaning to imply that you didn't know what you were doing, but maybe got the wrong idea from:

928? Great cars - let's see a pic!

That's just a meter with a fuse-shaped probe. You'd be better spending the money on a normal multi-meter that will do exactly this and a load of other things too.

When I had a flat battery and the BECM went mad (French, lhd, etc, etc) my BECM also showed as unlocked. However, once I'd changed the settings and re-synced the BECM with the ECU it then showed as locked, despite me not actually locking it. So the fact that it shows as unlocked may not be...