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Not only is there risk of fire hazard, the high pressure fuel vapour will easily penetrate skin if you get any part of the body close enough. Diesel injected under the skin will cause serious tissue damage if medical attention is not called for straight away. The injury can look like a pin...

If I remember correctly, the Series oil pressure switch thread is a straight type with a copper washer screwed into the alloy filter holder. Are you referring to the Series engine in particular or oil pressure switches in general?

I have found the tap useful in the past when changing the thermostat. You can push a piece of thin flexible tubing over the tap and drain a couple of litres of coolant into a container. This will have allowed the level to drop far enough to remove the thermostat without spilling any. This is...

I have read that some types of grease can react with the hose rubber and cause it to break down quicker. Again I cannot say if that is really true. Wetting the inside of the hose end with plain water before fitting it can also help them push on easier.

For how cheap the coolant hoses are, once you have gone to the trouble of taking them off, you may as well replace them. Old ones harden with age, and often do not reseal properly when refitted.

True, but it at least would indicate if any of the connections have come loose or any of the wiring has frayed.

I had read before not to go over 50% mixture as the antifreeze apparently does not absorb heat as well as water. I have one of the Sealey antifreeze testers that looks like a meat baster. Five of six floating discs is the maximum recommended concentration, all six discs floating is marked as...

I meant have only one positive feed to the bulb from no1 plug. That way the bulb not lighting up would show up a break in the circuit somewhere.

If I remember correctly, that drain tap turns to open the opposite way to what you would think. I believe you have to turn it clockwise, which would at first seem that you were tightening it. Don't force it too much, it can always be completely removed with a spanner if needed.

Thanks for the replies. I changed the parallel plug connection to the 12v side of the resistor. It seemed to start more easily than before, which is not surprising if the 12v plugs were only running on 8v. The dieselglow drawing that steve2286w posted appears to show the parallel plugs wired...

The last few times I have run the engine since changing the oil, I am sure that the engine sounds smoother. Perhaps it is just my imagination.

The Repair operations manual says to tighten the drive flange bolts to 30 to 38 ft lbs torque. The value given for the central flange nut is only 15 to 20 ft lbs.

Although it does not need to have tax paid, the paperwork still needs to be done every 12 months to allow it to be driven on the road. If this is current, it will still show up as taxed when checked on the government website.

I was thinking that the upgraded distributor contained a microchip based control unit of some sort. From a little research on google that may not be the case.

Thanks for the reply. Now you mention it, it must be about 20 years since I even heard a car backfiring.

Do the standard petrol heads need to be modified for unleaded fuel? It's not something I have ever thought about much as I run a diesel.

The survivalist types would say it's also worth hanging onto the original points based distributor as a spare in case of attack with an EMP weapon. This is designed to cause an electromagnetic pulse that will destroy modern electronics. The Russians kept vacuum tube based equipment for years...

What is different about that engine?

Breathers are good. the axles were fully rebuilt (including new breathers) and repainted. It has only ever been used on the road since.

I have read somewhere on the internet that the bronze corrosion issue was noticed a few years after GL5 was first introduced. I am sure I read that it has supposedly since been rectified, but cannot say that for certain. I used GL4 anyway as not to risk it.