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It may be worth repairing the old unit as a standby. The repair kits are on ebay for about £17. How do the bearings on the old unit feel? Do they still rotate smoothly or are they gritty or stiff? It may be a case of simply changing the internal electrical regulator parts.

When I replaced the chassis that came with my series I was never able to find a chassis number as I suspect that the dumb iron had been replaced. I burned the area where the chassis number should have been away into a pool of molten steel with a cutting torch just to be sure it was gone.

I saw one of the engines for sale at the Newbury show a few years back. I remember it being painted bright red. Did anyone on here acquire it?

That's exactly what I did in the end. What I was trying to say is that it isn't ever as straightforward as simply undoing screws.

I thought the same before I did mine, but it was actually a lot more difficult. I found that the floor and tunnel screws were often rusted into the clips. The originals were slotted for a screwdriver, which would often slip out of the slot before actually turning the screw head. This seemed...

I had the 2.25 diesel that came in my Series professionally rebuilt to as-new condition as I believe it is the original engine. I mean to the point of being re-bored, crankshaft reground, reconditioned injection pump etc. I thought I may as well spend the money then to hopefully avoid problems...

I had exactly this issue. I found that a lot of the small brackets that hold everything together were rusty. It took a lot longer while I grit blasted and repainted all of the small bits. There is also the issue of having to disconnect all of the wiring and deal with corroded connectors and...

I had this exact same problem with these. As soon as I saw the thread title I had a good idea what the problem would be. I cut some squares from 8mm thick rubber sheet and used those to fill the gap between the chassis and stop.

Were the six cylinder engined models a lot more expensive when they were new? There don't seem to be many about now. Has anyone on here even seen a 6cyl fitted into an 88 as an engine swap?

Be careful with those late 2A Grilles. It is known that they are valuable and they can get stolen. My Series 3 has one fitted. The Land Rover badge that holds it on is held in place with pin hex security screws. Hopefully that makes it a little more difficult to steal.

I fitted a set of black and silver plates to my 1972 Series 3 when I rebuilt it. I know for a fact that supermarket car park ANPR cannot detect the plates. There is a local supermarket that shows your plate on a display when you drive in. The display also says you have two hours allowed...

The diesel will also be ULEZ exempt if it is over 40 years old. However, classic cars are not exempt from the congestion charge, which is different to the ULEZ. Both the current ULEZ and congestion charge zone cover the same geographic area.

As he is in London, he would be better off looking at vehicles over 40 years old. They will be exempt from the London emissions rules, whereas the above 1985 example would not, at least for another few years. Pre-1980 also has the advantage of being tax exempt which saves another few hundred...

Now you mention it, I also used a matching countersink bit to cut the hole to the correct angle. I shot blasted and spray painted the original drums to the point where they looked almost as new. The friction surfaces were not too badly worn, the outsides were just covered with flaky rust as can...

I swapped the drum screws for countersunk zinc plated allen key head bolts. As far as I remember, 3/8" - 16 TPI Whitworth is the correct thread size. 3/8 - 16 UNC will work in this case, as not many places stock Whitworth bolts nowadays. With copperslip on the threads, I have never had...

Be aware that some of the modern repro stalks are poor quality. The plastic mounting bracket that held one I fitted to the column cracked across one of the screw holes. Looking closely at it there was an air bubble in the moulding where it broke. This was too late to be able to return it as a...

The first time I did these I used two small G Clamps to compress the bushes enough to get the split pin through the hole. When I fully rebuilt the vehicle, I ground the worn corroded pegs off the spring plates. I made up some longer lengths of 3/4" diameter steel bar with a 3/4" UNF thread on...

Thanks. As I have only ever owned a diesel Series I am not familiar with the petrol wiring.

Surely a petrol wouldn't have any need for a ballast resistor, unless I'm missing something?

I have found in the past that warming EP90 oil up before filling helps. It will be thinner when warm and much easier to pour or pump. I once stood a container of EP90 in front of an electric radiator for an hour before I used it to see if it would make a difference, which it definitely did...