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top job, now put yourself up on LZIR, perhaps you could help someone else in the same boat ! glad you got it sorted

does it do it with the electrics disconnected ? might also be worth try a recalibrate on the throttle pedal, ignition on (but not started) press the pedal 5 times, ignition off. good luck

I am sure you are an honourable person ySo, however, this is a BIG ask. You want someone to send a piece of kit worth £100+ through the post to someone they've never met. I sincerely hope that someone is willing and able to help you. (sadly I don't have one anyway)

wizyou young man ? someone may be willing to check your battery for you (including me if you're in my neck of the woods)

a few years back, the firm I worked for all had to do advanced driver training, and tbh, I thought it would be a pita, but the bloke was ex traffic police, and my day was brilliant. one of the things he taught me, and I have stuck to it to this day, is to always have dipped headlights on, day...

that's why I was wondering if he changed the cap each time too. If it fails to release at a certain pressure, it will over stress the header tank

did you change the cap each time too ?

can depend on lots of factors, including temperature / heating / cooling load, state of battery, dpf if fitted, electrical load

I have this on my vito. the black wheel wrench is for undoing the wheel nuts (obviously), the extension piece is for when the spare wheel is mounted against the side of the vehicle such that the flat side is against the side of the vehicle, and the central mounting bolt is within the wheel...

might have more luck on Freel2.com - Index

think only the bosch ones (OEM) were a straight swap fit, and the pierburg ones needed a synergy box to compensate for different values

more than happy with mine, comfortable and (so far) been reliable. little bit more expensive on servicing etc than other makes (such as ford, vauxhall) but not too much. as for stability when towing, I'll second that. handles really well with a caravan on the back, even did a full 60 to 0...

when you've finished connecting it all up, but before you reach the point of no return, make sure you test that the horn works. on some versions, the horn earth is routed via the head unit, and changing it has caused the horn to stop working. not something you would think to check, but find out...

there's also the seat belt pre-tensioners to consider as well. if they are activated or even disconnected, this will bring up an SRS fault

not sure stenova was serious... I take your point tim about the galv capping not complying, but if the occupant of the house refuses to do anything, then that's about the only control measure you can put in place. likewise the pvc cable issue. They won't change it, there's nothing you can do.

pays your money, takes the choice... the rear diff issue was quite widely documented, and in some cases was resolved with a software upgrade, but if the software upgrade wasn't carried out then it could cause diff failure the steering module was similarly well documented, and could be cause by...

tis a failed door locking solenoid, replace the lock assembly as a single unit allow £40 or so for aftermarket or £70 for genuine part takes about an hour the first time you do it, about 30 mins thereafter. not hard, just fiddly.

as skynet said, shouldn't need glow plugs this weather. even in the depths of winter, there is only the briefest of flashes to show they come on. as well as lp fuel pump, would also be looking at injectors (carry out a leak back test) good luck

tbh, for what it would cost, I would just whack a length of galvanised capping over it and leave it at that. capping is about £4 a length from DIY, less if you have a wholesaler or similar you can use.

had a fluke 73 until it got stolen, was the best meter I ever used. then someone gave me a much higher spec one, does loads of stuff, but would still go back to the 73. it's a nice simple auto ranging meter, reliable as anything and pretty tough too.