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it's a bent bit of metal - not exactly rocket science ... NRG's repair section is gonna be exactly the same shape as the footwell you already have. Can't you just measure you own footwell?

Dunno. The most I've found on that is that the 6-cyl might have had wider brake shoes, sorry. Series 2 parts manual might tell you more, I've only got a Series 3 one.

Six cylinders only went into 109's but 109's weren't all fitted with 6 cylinders.

Possibly meaningless info ... but I read somewhere that axle numbering was broadly in line with chassis numbering for the earlier Landies. If you put your axle ID into a VIN checker the "252" at the beginning says it's off a Series 2a 109 petrol.

think those early looking diffs are all 4.7's unless someone has changed them for diffs from a rover car, eg P3, P4, P5. the 3.54's as found in RR, Disco, 90, 110 etc I think are all the flat bottom type.

judging solely on the diff that's fitted, that's an early axle, probably 2a. it's not the flat bottom type fitted to most series 3's. i also imagine as Dr.P says that someone has improved the brakes by fitting either LWB or late SWB Series3 or 1-ton backplates with twin leading shoes...

sounds fairly standard! I think I can match that. Is this the same landy you've been squeezing the 300 into?

one way I've had with success before is to put the bumper up against a tree or something solid, put it in gear, depress the clutch and have a go at winding it over on the starter with a fresh battery.

fair play. hadn't even considered drilling the swivels, I redrilled & tapped the axle case. I got hold of a spare old swivel and cut the flange off, then used the flange as a drilling template in a pillar drill swung sideways, after making sure everything was perpendicular/vertical etc. that...

tending to work alone on these things I'd be thinking in terms of using the backhoe on my digger. how many of you did it take to lift it, how complete was it and what Landy was it?

I didn't have any realignment issues, as when I flipped the axle case one of the swivel flange bolt holes lined up perfectly for the clocking of the axle/swivels. I just had to re-drill and tap the remaining 6 holes each side, thus alignment kept both sides. wouldn't fancy doing it from...

gotter be said it IS a pants job. you could take a punt on it not dropping ... just undo the rear body bolts and see if it does drop. make sure all the rubber pads are still in place under the body first though. if it does drop you just have to support it back so the holes line up again. I...

top drawer! cheers. We're about halfway between H'west & Fishguard, just off the A40.

I'm encouraged to hear you say that as I have yet to drive mine, it's part of a massive overhaul that includes a lot of other mods. We have a Disco1 (300) as our 2nd car and yes, you're right, the swivels and front brakes need next to zero maintenance compared to a Series. The rear brakes are a...

not twist, but can sag if the steel under-tub support cross members have rotted ... which they often have. it's easier to bung some bits of wood under it while it's in position than jack it back into place afterwards.

to be really honest, disco1 rear disc brakes aren't the best ... and you can get perfectly good bolt-on front disc kits for a series. probably a lot more insurance-friendly too. when I look back at the time and effort I spent doing mine I really do wonder if I did the right thing ...

yeah I reckon you could, don't jack it up too far though. you might want to loosen the sills if they're still fitted. always got mine from paddocks ... they at least look the right shape.

not done a LWB but several SWB. cut it off before you unbolt the body, supporting body carefully before cutting, tack it back on once bolted up to rear body which is the alignment nicely sorted, then remove rear body & weld it up properly. having seen what you've been up recently to it...

oh yeah, and ... - heater hoses if it's a s3 - removing transmission tunnel will help you clear the gearstick (& overdrive lever if fitted) - removing handbrake lever will help you clear the seatbox - removing drivers floorplate will help you clear the transfer box levers by the time...

some more i can think of ... not exhaustive ... assuming you lift body complete - bottom of front radiator panel, rad hoses (rad stays with panel for lift), may need to remove rad shroud if still fitted to clear engine fan - bottom of bulkhead, long bolt on each outrigger (good luck!) -...