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if it offended you enough you could fit a replacement half-chassis which - depending on how back the refabrication goes - would rectify the lot. you'd need a replacement rear tub though and she'd sit tall at the rear on those shackles! half chassis are sadly not the cheapest thing in the...

break it for spares?

if that's a shorty, the entire back end of the main chassis rails have been re-fabbed ... it should curve downwards to the rear x-member (then he wouldn't have needed the spring hanger extensions). I'm guessing it's a shorty as the springs are in line with the rails rather than outboard.

make sure you remember to get the spreader plate for the hidden side of the rear crossmember otherwise the first time you hang something heavy on it the bolts will start to pull through ...

If anyone (official, eg MOT man, copper) suspects its' identity then it is flagged for a Vehicle Identity Check (VIC), where VOSA get involved. This is the same if the MOT man cannot read or find the chassis number, it gets flagged up. This is off VOSA website: "If VOSA cannot confirm the...

Later series 3's had different front dumbirons from the earlier 3 and 2a type, the additional steel bracing down to the forward spring eye bolthole extends longer back along the chassis rail (ie the thickened bit where the number gets stamped). There's also something about the size of the...

... however if you're fitting a s3 gearbox in a 2a chassis the slave cylinder will clout one of the bellhousing crossmember bracings, you'll need to do a little surgery with the grinder. edit: I just re-read your post and realised you're doing it the other round ... sorry ...

if it's just you in the Landy, how about a temporary bit of ducting (tumble drier vent & gaffer tape?) from the heater to your footwell?

good effort! where did you get the xtra long bolt? Did you just wind it up tight or pre-bend it?

tha's interesting ... no spacers under the axle. Think I'd still prefer a U-bolt though ...

These guys All Products supply most of the Landy stuff as far as I know, but whether they make one-offs is a different matter. If you live anywhere near the coast or have a sailmaker near you, you could try there, they would have all the facilities and should be used to one-offs.

Yeah, I might have seen that one too. Also seen where a tube has been welded on the side in a similar manner, and the bolt goes right through with a nut on the end. I think it might be easier to make the U-bolt than to do a half decent job of matching a block of steel to the profile of the...

I swapped the multileafer springs for para's with a thinner seat area, this gave me about an inch of spare on the U-bolts so I was able to use standards for the three bolts not next to the diff. For the odd-shaped one next to the diff I have a shop lined up to make some from a bit of EN8 bar.

MOT next month? you'd better pull your finger out! UK snow fall Met Office warning: Temperatures to plummet below zero | Mail Online

well, apart from the really obvious stuff ... windscreen, bulkhead, dash, hinges, front wings, heater intake, plastic grille - all of which could easily have been retrofitted, this detail ... ... says the chassis is also Series 3. If you want further ID on it your clutch slave...

Your Landy is entirely series 3, chassis included.

cunning as a fox. have you got a dividing head with degree increments then?

I found an old brass spacer ... maybe out of a meccano set or something, that dropped into the swivel ball bolt hole and gave me a centred pilot hole, that was before I got my lathe. If you're only drilling 4 holes, does that mean you managed to clock it and keep all the other holes?

The chap who used to break Landies up on the A4 near Theale was Martin Fidler, 0118 971 4064, thoroughly recommended. It's been a couple of years since I last visited, can only assume he's still there.

We used to live up the road from you. Have you tried the chap who breaks Landies and lives (lived) up on the A4 at Theale? Can anyone help with a number/name/more details for him?