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Sounds like I'm screwed then as pressing the button won't deactivate the immobilisor and I have no EKA code for it. Guessing I'll be needing a replacement bcu and all that goes with it?

It's developed another problem now - immobilisor isn't disarming and remote locking doesn't respond. Changed fob battery, it worked once and now it's stopped again. At least it's got me home anyway! I'll be sending the BCU to you next week Rick...

Can your rear axle articulate properly without catching? I have 35s too but they catch like mad, I'm thinking about lifting the body or going for smaller tyres. It looks good with the coopers! Would be interested to see how they perform when you've had chance to test them out....

Land rover take the body off to do the timing belt to access the fuel pump belt at the back of the engine. Actual timing belt is easily accessible though. I had a sport and did both belts myself in about half a day, it's not as bad as some people make out, just read the guide on he disco 3 site...

As already said, it'll do ok in standard trim, just don't go alone. If you want to modify it then decide on tyres first and go from there. Removing the bottom of the front bumper helps with approach angle too and is a free mod :biggrin1:

What about a range rover sport? Same car as a disco 3 but with the range rover looks. Interior is slightly different too, but not much. Could be a more reliable option than l322?

Jack it up and check wheels for play, you may have finished off a wheel bearing or swivel house bearings. Any knocking? Or just vibration? As said above, mud on the inside edge of the rim can cause vibration. I had this on an m3 after a drift day at Oulton park - they spray muddy water on the...

You've got the bug then! :biggrin1: Is the new one diesel or v8? Manual or auto?

I've got none on mine but it's loud! If you cut the exhaust back, you will end up with soot on the rear door as the gases get drawn up the back of the car.

Why not use a heli coil and keep the same size?

The scorching to the white plastic is from me trying to get solder between the wire and spade, but it wouldn't stick. Needs cleaning up better with sandpaper.

Here's the wires going into the brown plug connected to the bcu: The bare conductor that's showing was dry and had a powdery coating before I sprayed it with contact cleaner. They seem tight into the connector though. Will find out where the other end is tomorrow and if possible meter the...

Cleaned the bcu and all the connectors - no difference. A couple of wires going into the brown plug don't look great though so it might be worth rewiring that. Anyone know if you can buy the brown plugs on their own?

Just replied Rick. I'll have a quick check over this evening and if I'm still no further I'll send it down to you. Much appreciated!

Any common areas to look at for dry joints? I'm hoping the IDM replacement has ruled that out, and the wiring in between looks ok from the parts I've seen, but are there some headers or other connections that you know of that I should have a closer look at? If I go down the replacement BCU and...

Thanks for that, I've sent him a PM. From what they say on the website, it looks like Turner Diagnostic will look at it, let you know a cost then send it back to you if you don't want to proceed. I would expect that the repair would be covered by some sort of warranty too. The problem is...

Novel idea but rather than having to stick a mat to the windscreen after it's frosted, just save yourself the cash and stick a piece of cardboard on the outside of the windscreen the night before? Depending how much heat it kicks out, you could risk cracking your screen.

I've got indicator issues (constantly indicates left) and central locking issues (randomly unlocks itself). I've replaced the IDM and checked out the wiring. Found afew dodgy looking earths which I've replaced and also removed some spurious wiring but I'm still having the issues. I've no...

I wasn't aware you needed a different flange to fit a double cardon prop? I've never converted a 300 to run one though so can't be sure.

It comes with a bolt, split pin and nut to suit all types. If yours has a nut, just use that. The spacer is for the old type flange, the new ones have spacers built into the flange so it's not needed. There's also the option to fit a 15mm spacer between prop and flange if you're on a big lift...