Search results

BTW. Grabber AT are noisey and slide about in the wet to the point that they scare me !!

I have 15, 16, 17 and 18 inch wheels on 4 different Freelanders. The 18 inch with 50 series tyres is best on the motorway but not good on pot holes. My 17 inch wheels with 225/65 Geolanders is by far the best ride and they last forever !! Well 40k and still good. Great in the wet too. So...

A solution that I came up with for USB and a useful battery voltmeter is this. https://ebay.us/m/e0yGIy It also fits in the right-hand spare blanked hole that is for LHD headlight adjustment. It is a tight fit but a touch with a file or sharp knife to remove molding marks and it looks great...

Replacement engine with working IRD now in car. Just have to connect it all up and rebuild the front subframe and wishbones, driveshafts etc. If I did it again I would remove the bolts holding the manual gear lever link arms on the bulkhead. These fit to the rods with the press fit ball ends...

Failed engine now out of car and on trolley with good IRD removed ready to fit to replacement engine and then pop the whole lot back in the car. Found a broken gearbox connector, 1st or reverse switch so fitted a spare plug to the loom. So the only ancillaries I left in the vehicle that is...

Green car into workshop, had a bit of an electric drive around on starter first as most of it will go in the scrap bin!! All bits in better condition than donor engine swapped over; pcv, fuel return hose, broken clips etc. All top disconnections made. Started underneath, all bolts soaked and...

Wear goggles !!

Just revisiting this idea. To accommodate the comments made, proposing Saturday 13th September. Again, if there are enough 👍then I will do some planning.

Engine cleaned up. Broken IRD off. Replaced clutch. Replaced vacuum hoses and starter motor contacts. Parked up on trolley waiting for IRD from failed engine then ready to go in. Have to strip out failed engine and box first !!

It's just this is your 4th post with the same problem. Makes it really difficult to see what responses you have had and what has been advised and tried. Remove duplicate posts, post results of tests and you'll find this is one of the best forums there is. Help yourself and keep it simple and...

Another one !!

It's out of the donor car. So about 3 hours to drain fluids and do all the top disconnections (that is disconnect not cut or chop !). And about another 3 hours to drop the front subframe, remove driveshafts and drop assembly out using an engine crane and trolley underneath then lift body off...

I posted this a while ago, but can't find it now. This is the way I remove glowplugs and have recently done 2 engines with 7 out of 8 being successful! The last one came out fine with the torque wrench approach and unscrewed leaving the tip of the plug stuck in the head. The electrode came...

Back onto this one again now. Donor car is on the ramp, warmed up and drained all fluids. Removed all failed glowplugs. One left a tip in the engine. Will add how I got that out in the glowplug thread. All disconnections made on top and all bolts sprayed with penetrative oil underneath ready...

OK. Might have been worth mentioning your location for best results !!

Where abouts are you?? Details not on your profile. What is wrong with engine?? As above, delete your phone number and place ad in wanted.

Good report 10/10 for the TD4 Sport Auto. Never missed a beat. 1650 miles. Overall average 34.6 mpg. That included a week on Mull in 3rd and 4th gear. Motorway runs averaged 36.5 mpg at a steady 70mph over 450 miles. Took a bag of spares, lp fuel pump, aux belt, tools etc but nothing required...

If you JUST want to open tailgate window and, as above, don't want any other functions to work, wiper, washer, glass to drop to allow door to open, window calibration for correct operation, then simply apply 12 v to pins 3 and 6 of the window motor and reverse the polarity to close it again...

it is possible that the device could be over boosting the engine and it will limit to prevent damage. Depends how it works. Purely increasing fuel pressure may not be detectable but if it generates more boost to turbo then it may limit the engine and show engine light. If not, another thing to...

Cam sensor is my best guess from what I read. Doesn't always generate a fault code so beware. Freezer test is easy and worthwhile.