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It is known for a faulty starter motor to draw to much current. in doing so the voltage going to the ecu is below the threshold, (App. 10.5v). If this is the case then the ecu shuts down. Jump starting or bump starting may help diagnose this.

So here we are again searching the depths of the wisdom. Defender 110 TD5 2000 Tis dead and about to get drastic action - matches My Hawkeye tells me my only fault is EGR (which is removed) But live readings tell me RPM error. I can also get live RPM readings, i.e. my cranking reading...

Hi I had the same problem this time last year. Without a crank reading the engine will not start, it will just keep turning over. As you have replaced the ranks sensor it only leaves 2 the problems: 1. The wires for the sensor are damaged. You can check the continuity of the wires at the...

Sounds like a fuel leak. I found on mine that the connections in / out of the fuel filter housing were corroded. Didn't think much of it at the time, turns out it was letting air into the system. If you have done your air bleed valve it may be enough disturbance to the housing to prevent a good...

Back in the Uk, bought a new battery. stuck it in and she still wont start. Tried jumping it from mates 90, still wont start what the feck is this tempremental problem??? Maybe time to hire in the big guns and employ some one to look into this.

Your bang on boys. Jump start last night and she came back to life. I had disregarded the battery as the engine had fired and ran for a second or 2. Also on checking voltages they weren't dropping down to the threshold of 9v to shut off the ecu. In reality the ECU does need 10.5v to run...

Cheers Sierrafery Think I may nick a battery from work as a test. Battery has had a good charge whilst disconnected. Fingers crossed.

1. All the earths were removed. Where they bolt to the chassis was cleaned back to bare metal as was the bolts, washers and cable ends. All bolted back up. Extra earth strap ran from gearbox to drivers side chassis and also chassis to bulkhead. An earth is lead direct to the ecu. 2. Jump leads...

When cranking voltage at ecu and across battery drops to 10.2v. Ecu plugged into my mates 110 - all ok. At last parts have arrived and I have made a fuel pressure test unit using an old fuel regulator hose I get just over 4 bar going into fuel regulator but less than 2 bar coming out...

Both the non-return & the air filter are fitted to my td5 defender (2000) and to a mates td5 110. Looking at the filter housing from the wheel arch - rear end nearest to you is the port with the air bleed. 19mm spanner and unscrew it. You will soon know. If you re-fit it replace the copper...

When cranking voltage drops to 10.2 v. Checked at ECU power & at battery. ECU removed for testing - hoping it's not fried again.

I run both a Defender 110 & an early Series 3 lightweight. They both have a time and place - normally to cover the other when one is off the road. Fuel efficient - No. Comfy - not particular. FUn - Yes. Workhorse - fantastic. Offroad ability - great if that's your thing. I remember I went...

A while back i had a mjor problem trying to bring the 110 td5 back to life. turned out my ecu was fried. Last week I started the car and it stop after a running for 1 -2 secs. I left the car on charge over night, waggled wires, checked earths ( earth between ecu & vattery didn't seem great...

Did you mean the engine turns over but wont start. Or it just doesn't turn over?

I thought that a defender 90 was set differently to the 110. Is this just in the fuelling set up? I take it from what you are saying is you can't re-program the fulling unless you have a NNN.... ecm?

Bottom of the tray there are 2 studs for earthing to. Although I ran mine to the bolt that secures the ECU

I had a similar issue recently - cranking but not firing. My fuel pump was running My problem was ecu not seeing the cranksensor. You should get a crank reading even when just turning over. This is the only sensor that will shut down the engine. For me it turned out that inside of the ecu...

Thanks for the photos. Food for thought. I now need to pile up all the bits I have and decided which way to go.

What about a 3.5L?

Aye with the 101 box the propshaft is awfully wee. I got mine specially ,ade by the local propshaft centre. Cost £125 each and done app. 1000 miles. Now surplus to requirements. Pm with an offer.