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Tremendous :)

I bought a roll of closed cell foam. I think it's about 8mm thick. Closed cell means it doesn't soak up water. It also made an impressive difference to the sound levels. In the back of my 90 I cut panels of it to fit the floor, wheel arch sides etc. On he sides I stick it place with strong...

IIRC the valve closes as you accelerate, this reduces the flow of exhaust gas being diverted in to the cylinders and allows more oxygen in, which is required to burn the extra fuel for acceleration. This would indicate that yours was sticking open if it wasn't pulling well up to 2000 revs. If...

I had a mondeo with a faulty egr stuck open. It smoked a bit on harder acceleration and gear change. Having said that, if it's faulty I'd be tempted to put a blanking plate in rather that just disconnecting.

Is it faulty? If you're not sure it could be stuck in the open position.

Easily done with Land Rovers because we're that used to things going wrong :eek::D

Pleased you've got it sorted :)

@Discodevon can you post a picture or two of the cracks? They sound unusual for a vehicle in the condition yours is in. Given what I've seen of yours I suspect I'd be getting it welded up. Someone near you will do ali welding. Pictures would be handy though.

But was the end of the tub that houses the door latch and your seat box ends corroded?

I've owned a Defender and maintained it myself for a very long time. Problem solving methods become beaten in to you :rolleyes::) Like Marksman I've found cheapy actuators (Hawk ones) to be ok. Not great, but ok. Their wiring harnesses are terrible though. I fitted their central locking system...

Have you tried disconnecting the actuator rod from the solenoid, to see if the solenoid works and doesn't drop back a bit on it's own. Then you'll know if it's the solenoid or something in the mechanism pulling it back.

Those bolts fasten the bottom, front corners of the tub to the tubular outrigger, under the behind seat bulkhead. It's one of the first places to start rotting. Yours looks immaculate :cool: It's a good indication that the rest of your Defender is in great condition. What year is it? If it's as...

There's a thin metal frame, same colour as bodywork, which is bolted between the wings. It has holes with metal clip inserts to take chunky self-tappers to hold the grill in place. Away from home, so no pictures I'm afraid.

I think I probably caused a few little scratches putting it together. But, having it all rubbed down, treated, primed and painted inside and out, was well worth a few scratches that you can just T cut out or will barely be noticed. The alternative is to have areas you know haven't been prepped...

Yes, Rioja Red, the original colour. :)

I got a paint shop to do it. I was about 30 miles away and I hired a van. Just about finished. Had four new tyres and a few more bits and bobs to go on. It's been filthy ever since :rolleyes:

I got all of my panels painted off the Landy too. Then rebuilt them back on to the chassis. Gives a thorough inside and out job.

I honestly don't know if it will be useless mate to be honest. I have a 300Tdi, so haven't had personal experience, I've just read a fair bit on Landy Zone about people having bother with the cheap ones. It might not be all of them though! Did they break in to it? Don't fall for the faulty alarm...

Did you order a cheap, after market sensor? I've read bad things about those ones on here. If you sort the turbo issue out you won't need an uprated intercooler.

Looking good :cool: I wouldn't be worrying too much with it being a galv chassis. I didn't put anything on mine. The shock turrets look solid, but rusty. It might be worth swapping those out while it's all apart. If you do, it's a hell of a lot easier to get the washer and nut back on top of the...