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Had that on mine a couple of weeks back. Was seeing less than 11v running I believe as well. Took about 30 minutes to swap the alternator out for a recon spare I had on the shelf. Not a massive job but certainly a pain in the ass when it happened!

Approved Voltage Indicator. Used by sparks to check voltages. It’s all I had in the boot 😂

New (brand new used parts) alternator in, about an hour in total which was decent. 14-15v showing on an AVI, left the multimeter at home but I’m very happy with how easy it was.

Did that already when I replaced the battery a few months ago. I’ll swap it over on to the new one if it’s different.

Brand new tensioner on there back in November after the pulleys crapped themselves and left me stranded. Any hints on best practice? Crow bar and gentle leverage or something else?

One step forward and 2 steps back.. Set off to work this morning, rev needle didn’t move for a solid 10s after ignition.. strange then BEEP BEEP. I thought I briefly saw alternator fault and gearbox fault before they disappeared. So engine off and grabbed multimeter. 12.69v engine off, 11.5v...

We had a dusting of snow Saturday night but it soon turned to sludge. Then very rapidly all turned to water when more rain appeared. Basically spent the last 2 days out wading.

serviced the P38 today but while I was in the engine bay I took the intake manifold off and changed the glow plugs and spill return lines. Had noticed a puddle of derv by the injectors. All sorted for another year.. maybe 6 months depending on mileage.

I’d hope not, new battery was fitted at the start of August. I’ll pop the multimeter across it and see what it’s at.

Got in the car this morning.. after a brief moment the SRS light and Airbag Fault appears on the dash - no warning beeps. Turned the engine off and wobbled the yellow cable under the seat as that’s been an issue in the past.. nope. Still there. Time to start digging deeper 🤦‍♂️

Down in the West Country for me. So absolutely no snow, just wet.

Had a bulb on the dash cluster fail on me, so pulled that out, changed the bulb.. same side is out. Great. Pulled it out again and swapped the lamp holders around and again, same side is out. I’m assuming that the solder tracks on the PCB have failed and the only remedy is a replacement cluster?

On the subject of lights.. First day of actually needing them to drive home, RH Dipped beam failure flashed up on the dash.. of course. Thankfully the spare I keep in the glove box came in clutch and saved the day, however this leads me on to what to replace them with? I did have some...

Thought I’d give an update on this. So not only did the static idler bearing fail, garage reckons the reason for that failing was the tensioner wasn’t tensioning any more. A new bracket, bearing and tensioner later, I’ve got the car back and its working lovely!

Does the L322 have the window feature where if you press and hold the unlock button windows will go down? Might be a case of something inadvertently pressed the unlock button on the fob for a bit and caused this

I did that and turns out the road tyres I had were just very loud..

If you’re already looking to run the phono leads from the head unit you’re probably better off running a dedicated 12v power cable from the battery at the same time. Most subs/audio kits will have one with an inline fuse built in, you’d then have a switched live cable from the stereo so it’s not...

Yup! That’s the one!

I don’t think it’s the one that applies tension. It’s near the top to the left of the alternator as you’re looking at the car. Still, it’s a hell of a lot cheaper than I was first expecting when it happened 😂

Quick update: RAC arrived in record time to assess, it’s a belt pulley - not 100% what it’s attached to but doesn’t appear to be the PAS pump