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Doing the above is not good for the alternator and can result in damaging the voltage regulator.

Once running a TDI will keep going as long as there is enough volts for the stop solenoid.

To check. Use a multimeter set in dc volts across battery terminals will tell if alternator is still working. It may be the bit that cuts the power to the dash charge lamp has quit. Engine on [and rev it a bit] and off. See if it agrees with your dash meter.

Good job then and nice you came back with outcome.

Should settle after a couple of adjustments. Has yours got the square hole in the bracket for a half inch tommy bar to lever on to set tension?

All those bolts you mention came free on my truck with just penetrating oil. A good ring needed for those swivel housing to axle bolts. Some shock helps. Heat is your friend with stuck stuff as your neighbour knows. No head left, angle grinder and vice grips with heat. Mine having a good...

You have a need then. Your old alternator may well fix to be an on hand spare. Swapped out a non working alt for spare a while back and got around to sorting it just the other day. New rectifier and brush/voltage regulator pack for £20 + post. If stator and armature windings are good often worth...

It is a shame so many folk, and not just farmers do not take basic care of their vehicles. A good clean underneath once a year and when dry a spray of preservative goes a long way. I was doing similar work on mine recently and all bolts that needed undoing did so. Thirty plus year farm truck.

You may have two issues. If you are sure are not actually overheating with your thermometer readings 70 something at the top of rad and lower at the bottom hose is good. With engine hot and rad cap off [careful opening up, slow with thick cloth over cap] can you see coolant circulating? If so...

Petrol series known to cut out due to fuel vapour lock because of the overheating. Are you losing coolant? Has your rad got all of its cooling fins? A hand held IR temp reader is a good tool to check which parts of a cooling system is doing its stuff.

Brush pack and voltage regulator one combined on many alternators. Unless you have some equipment on board with a heavy drain and in use for long periods on the batt there is little point in having a larger than standard alt. All it will do is charge the battery faster while loading the engine more.

Double check connections ? With alternators the usual suspects are brushes and their contact rings, voltage regulator, and rectifier. How to check/repair alternators on you tube. This does mean removal and opening it up.

New belt and re tension after a run. Correct width belt? I have found solid belts better than those teeth type.

Have a look at dieselinjectionpumps.co.uk Parts and information/diagrams available. I think that cover is for the pump advance mechanism, a spring/plunger is in there. Cover has a gasket or O ring to seal. I am no expert on diesel pumps but parts/info from this firm has helped me repair both...

Your Landy is not a Defender [ the name came later on] Yours is a Land Rover One Ten, this detail can make a difference when ordering parts. Looks like a Lucas 127 type alternator.

Looking pretty good to me. What engine? From the TDI decal on the wing a 200tdi? Common enough change for early Ninety [written not numbers, can make a difference when looking for parts] Mine is a 1990 Ninety with 200tdi.

There are spot weld removal bits available, better than a standard bit.

I would put a spanner on that union with the rubber pipe and see if it will nip up a tad. As you say oil may be coming from above but that is the diesel injector pump. Air flow when driving can sling oil all over.

I don't know if any help but Bahama beige was a popular colour at that time, mostly on Range Rovers.

When Land Rover brought out the Series 3 they started the suffix at A again. But now just to cause us confusion the location is on the top edge of the transfer box. Then there is the issue of what other folk have done in the past with fitting parts and cases from different eras.