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One of mine went to leak recently, no issue with the ball housing but found a bit of water had got into the back of the seal and rotted the seal spring until it gave way.

That is the way I do it if other parts in good order. When out I lower the hub swivel unit back into the wheel laid flat on the ground, holds it nice for seal change. Extra hands to get them back is good, more so the long shaft.

Off with the dash top to access the wheel box's. Swapping out the cable at motor end bit of a fiddle but several how two video's on the you tube.

It doe's sound like there is a lot of "slop" in the system. Can you move arm by hand to full sweep and usual park position? If so there can be issues with location of arm on its spindle or with the drive cable itself. Also can be problem with location of drive cable with the motor gear box.

What model is your Land Rover? There are several different Series box and each has a different Suffix number/letter. Gears look different to me and so will not do. You could swap the whole transfer box section.

Moghrey mie and Bore da, From the West Wales coast. I listen to Manx radio a fair bit as it comes in well hear and has good music. Try carpricetracker.net May help with historical prices. Hwyl.

In many years gone by I did use the 36IV for other uses other than my Land Rover. I had one on my 1300 Escort. Experiments with different jets had me a good cheap power up grade [along with other tuning] over the original set up.

It may be worth trying a re bleed.

Is the slave push rod the original one? Wear can be an issue.

Connections in the fuse box common issue, try cleaning them up. Old glass type?

Probably cold rolled, likely the most available. Strength wise not much in it for what you need, but cold has a smoother surface finish. 3mm is what I use for chassis.

What vehicle/year?

The only thing I have done to sort a crunched wing id replace the whole thing with a better [not new] one. However recon you are on more of a restoration than fix up. It is not hard to remove spot welds, there are special drill bits to do just that and they work well. It is a case of rivet to...

MUD UK do a range of switches.

Me too, I went through 3 replacements in 3 months last year before I found one that worked and kept working. A new in the box original Waxstat made one. 👍

Note that is an odd one, if switched on should go at all times the ignition is on regardless as you know. All I can think is some one has wired it wrong at some time but just a guess.☹️

Usual and best place to connect in your landy is in the right rear under the cover there. And what ever you do do not use those devils inventions "scotch blocks" to link in.

Carry on with your old type bodge method if you must, but better modern methods are available today as noted by myself and others on this forum.

Model and year may be helpful.

Sounds like the type fitted to 1980 and on Series and 83-85 Coil spring models.