Search results

In the under bonnet fusebox I have 2 yellow and 1 green relay for air con Does this mean mine is later wiring type? :o

Finally got a few mins to myself Plug is blue one side black the other, wire colours are Black/Black Purple and other side of plug they are Black/Red orange Had a good look on rave and it's nearest to connector C164 , but that is for Auto transmission temperature switch, and on location view...

Nanocom in Haywards Heath as well

I'm going to investigate when I get home, but plug I mentioned is definitely 2 wire, and is nothing to do with headlamp or wiper. I seem to remember I have 3 yellow relays in the underbonnet fuse box for air con, but will check, Thanks so far chaps

I found the two plugs you mention, the one I'm looking at is further up in the loom behind the headlamp and is an inline connector with one of those barbs that supposed to clip into a hole, a hole that does not seem to exist The rubber seal in this plug has failed and the terminal inside was/is...

Outside air temp seems to read correctly, There is no obvious pattern to when it works, either hot, cold etc. Going to start checking connections tomorrow, but puzzled about a 2 wire inline plug and socket behind passenger headlight, one part of socket is blue. It's not headlight related but...

The car is registered Oct 96, but allegedly in paperwork classed as a 97MY. I take it then from your question they changed something? As for fuel thingy, this I take it is the part listed in your how to with a link to cheap replacement.

My aircon is intermittent, there is no real pattern as to when it will or will not work, just had a new condenser and recharged which was free as it did not work when Kwik Fit had it, Putting Nanocom on it I get error 33 Compressor Clutch Open (fault type=Current) With the car running and...

Me again Tried to sync the other remote, Number 2, no matter what I do it will not sync. The led comes on Any ideas??

Ignore me Just tried again unlock with key In ignition position 2 for 30 secs and remote 1 works woo hoo. But Power locking has popped the rod of the key lock, so cant do the other or use key, well I know what i'll be doing at lunchtime now Joys of a p38a

Fitted new air con condenser last night. when finished go to lock car, remote not working!! Other remote batteries flat As I just got new batteries and have been getting fob battery low message I swapped out batteries in both remotes, but whatever I try I cannot sync the remotes. Still...

At my age that's about all I can manage anyway

I thought when I had a quick look it seemed simple enough, Rave suggests removing battery box and ECU which to me seemed bizarre. When I saw pic minus bumper, I wondered where they had hidden a couple of bolts just to make a simple job a PITA

Cool thanks for that. I had that top panel off a week or two back, The top o/s mounting for the fans is not even connected, seems to be only a pin hole leak though, When I first read this post, I messaged on ebay my rad supplier, o-rings not included but they are now if you know what I mean.

Did you need to take the bumper off to do this My condenser will arrive tomorrow, I really plan on doing as little dismantling as possible.

Nope not this at all The little plungers in the switches have worn off or broken off, one is actually missing and was loose inside the lock. operating the switched with a screwdriver they work fine.

I will get remote working but batteries were low and drivers door lock was busted, so won't allow syncing Now lock is fixed, just got to sort remote, have a refurb kit coming by post. But getting rid of alarm and immobiliser is a good thing in my book. I can unlock the car and start it with...

One little question, I take it the rear locks don't have the little micro switches in. Drivers front has 3, passenger front has 2 It's these that have gone wrong with both my front locks. bought a brand new drivers lock so sorted that. Just need to sort passenger out now.

Well I tried setting it to disabled. Seems to have achieved what i wanted originally. remote central locking with no immobiliser or alarm. They have been deactivated with Nanocom aswell My second key that is not synced would never start the car after key one locked it by remote, it always...

Using my Nanocom I have set the one shot on all my windows to none, saved the settings but they still do the one touch down thing.Is this right? if so anyway else I can get rid of the one touch? Also I have found a setting the says EKA enabled and can be set to disabled, what does this actually...