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The relocation bracket is by far the better solution as it maintains the same pressures in the bags. The Monsta kit is good value for money, fitted one on sunday to a friends car, no problems encountered, they even supply a drill and tap to thread the axles with. One thing we did notice is...

I would recommend you get underneath and have a very GOOD look over the front propshaft, inparticular on the transfer box end where you will see a "double UJ" arrangement. Check for wear / movement in all directions, ANY play is not good and will require either your shaft being rebuilt, or...

Well you have made your feelings clear. Thats fairenough. My opinions on this topic were and ARE based on experience with my vehicle AND the other guys I go out with on regular occassions, some of which have D1's or D2's lifted and not lifted. I have no idea where you have been offroad...

I agree, we all have to make our own choices, but to say lifting a Disco will cause it to fall apart is a bit OTT "Imo". Many many people do it, they cant all be wrong can they.

There is more than one way to skin a cat, and like I explained in my reply, some things are only needed when you do others, ie brake lines do not replacing if you keep factory length shocks, yes you can spend £800 ish, even more, but its not a hard and fast rule. Simply not true Dave, in...

Why not just help him out for god sake .......you guys were all "new" to it at some point. @bigwillis, To "lift" the suspension, you need lift / heavy duty springs and thats it, if you want to regain the same axle travel as before the lift, then you need to fit extended shocks as well...

The soapy water trick is "unreliable" for the air springs themselves unless the leak is NOT under where the bag rolls over itself. Treat the airbags AND height sensors as "serivce items" and replace them every couple of years. If the height sensor is broken, ie split end, then yes that...

Yes your correct ref Hawkeye adjusting the SLS, Silly really because it "should" be in there imo, especially because the makers of it make Testbook as well....... As far as update for Nano, not for the old one as far as I know, I would "hope" the new one does it........I will not commit to...

I have had no issues programming New or used keys using Nanocom, BUT it would not program a NEW SLS remote with tags to my or 3 other of my frinds vehicles.....To this day don't know why........something wrong with the software somewhere as Hawkeye did it first time.

Sounds like a classic case of no vac assistance, I would DOUBLE check the EGR blanking, if in doubt refit ALL the EGR pipes (except one to valve) and see if it happens again, my guess is it wont. http://www.td5alive.com/docs/EGR%20bypass%20kit.pdf to see details.

Not aware of any towball thats rated to 9000Lbs, even "good" ones like Dixon bate etc still fall short of a 9000lb winch, which is what you "should" ideally fit to a discovery.

Good to hear its

I "had" one on my D2, works exactly the same way as on the D1, and if you want a winch with a factory bumper, its the perfect solution in my opinion.

I agree, but don't even think 180A is enough, most low line winches will draw atleast 300A or more when pulling near max load. There are some relays "out there" marketed at 180A, but I for one am very sus ref their suggested rating, especially when you compare them to a "commercial" type heavy...

either from here Landrover Discover 2 Bespoke Parts - Manufactured by Torque Performance 4x4, Keighley, England, UK or an ARB from any dealer.

Have you seen that size tyre on a D1 with no lift ? for 1 it looks ridiculous (my opinion) as it completely fills the arches, of which are not that big on a Disco 1, It will probably need more "trimming" as the tyres will be a lot closer to the arches. If you then go fit extended bump stops...

235/85-16 is nearly 32" tall, and really should be done "with" a 2" lift.

The guide tells / shows you the bolt won't come out on its own, you have to bring the bolt AND the pulley out together, placing a thin sheet of metal in front of the rad to protect it is also shown

I Would look at the wiring that runs between the door pillar and the door (in the rubber tube / grommet), most likely a break in that, if not a little further inside the passenger footwell where it comes in from the A pillar and goes up to the BCU. Seen it before, same symptoms

I posted a link on page 1, that will show it can be replaced without removing the radiator 2 bolts holding the damper is not enough imo, has one of the been sheared of ? I would suggest you wait until its out the car and have a good look at it, maybe post some pictures ?