The best way to do it if it's being a total bitch is to,
1:leave the rad cap off after filling
2open the heater valve to full
3:let the engine warm up
After this the coolant may overflow from the rad but don't worry about it as this is just air trying to find it's way out.
Once it settles down...
The heater matrix is part of the cooling system so if you do a drain/refill the heater Must be in the max open position (hot) in order to allow coolant into it.
If you don't do this you end up with a massive air lock.
By tube level he means the lowest point at which the 1/2 shaft housing connects to the diff housing.
Wouldn't it be easier to change pan for one that's already got a filler plug?.
I might be teaching you to suck eggs here but another tip once you have it back together properly is,when you adjust the h/brake wind the adjuster in as tight as you can get it then back it off until it doesn't bind.
Can't offer any help but i know from experience on other issues that the DVLA are a bunch of jobsworth cnuts.
They are on a Parr to building regulations IMO(getting sh1t from them at the mo):mad::mad:
Had this problem in the army when 110/90's were first introduced.There must be a mod now but at the time the bonnet was too weak to handle the weight of the spare wheel.
:doh: I should of thought of that,Makes perfect sense to me,if the timings out due to wear then it WOULD make a difference.But having said that on a high mileage old girl i would still bypass the glow plug sensors and have a manual heat option.