Search results

In that case maybe the original used black hoses are even better (I could not see them delaminated but found oil on them as well)

Hi All Yesterday I found slight oil mist on the surface of silicone hoses just after turbo and before intake manifold (before the intercooler was dry). Has any experienced the same? Is it due to the quality of hoses (porous)?

Job done. Lock nut was machined to about 2mm thinner. Now it is adjustable and reaches diff lock mechanism and gives signal. In the meanwhile I have found this on the web, seems that someone sets it by using washers...(or it is a shorter switch?)

Thanks. This what i also thoght. I will make it thinner tomorrow and try.

Yes it was working perfectly before. Tried today as well. When i connect the wires to the switch and push the end by hand i hear the 3 bongs and the ligth is on. When i have installed the linkage from Ashcroft i have done the wiring mod according to your instructions

Hi All Today I tried to change my diff lock switch as the old one did not work. I have tried to screw in the new one by using the lock nut originally had on the switch but seems that it could not reach the point where it works. As I have tried to screw it more down the new switch broke (luckily...

Mine is also worn (did not have reverse light), I also wanted to remove and weld, but the screw fixing the yoke to the shaft could not be moved (even with special heavy duty tools) and before causing any bigger damage on the shaft I gave up and made a longer reversing switch:-) As yours already...

Just one more interesting thing.. My wife's Honda has a side window deflector which exactly creates similar noise what you have described. If I slightly lower the window (few mm) then the whistle goes.....

In the past I had also issue with power related to MAF. In my case it showed up right after start and gone in about 10 sec. after the car run well. I changed the MAF to genuine and problem was solved (it was an EU3 auto). Have you tried to drive the car with the MAF disconnected?

The air inlet for the heating/cooling is under the hood just under the windscreen (long opening covered with foam normally). Is it what you are looking for? I do not think that it can couse such noise. Have you checked for example hand brake asm? The other source of vibration for me was the hand...

Does it do it when you switch of the heating (fan) as well? Mine was also whistling and for me it was the bearing of the blower motor. (this is not speed dependent, but you can check, maybe)

Update! Problem has solved. It was the bulb holder which had a connection issue (small copper piece marked on the side of the holder). I had to slightly lift it in order to have better contact with the side of the bulb. Thanks for the suggestions!

The bulb has already changed to a new one, no effect. Behind the lamp body everything seems OK, not moisture, corrosion, but will double check tonight and clean all connections, bulb holders....

Thanks Fery! Do you mean the connector which connects the lamp asm to the wires come from the car body?

Any idea where to check?

Hi all Just discovered an electrical problem and no idea what could be the reason. I have both brake lights working when the lights are not on, but when i turn on the lights and push the brake only the right one works but the left turns off ( no light at all). When i relese the brake it works...

Agree with above, probably almost all electrical stuff are prewired. my car is a very basic one and I have already installed cruise control with no issue. I needed only the switches and just "plug and play". Other example the front fog light, which I do not have but prewired so I could easily...

Not really! The problematic side is on the gearbox side and hard to see. If it is leaking oil in that area and even you change the O rings still leaks than it is worn and better to sleeve it (or change to the sleeved casing). I did it last year, together with major overhaul, since it is fine!

I have used such devices which makes easier the removal of boxes, but still not an easy job to do it laying on your back:-( If it is not too expensive have it done by a mechanic. (the other tool next to the tbox adapter is the spigot bush removal tool:-))

I did it on mine about 2 years ago following the above video. I did it in my garage, lifted the car about 20cm and laying on my back. Not nice but doable:-) 2nd time when I removed only the tbox (for renewal) I used special transmission jack which made the removal and refitting of box much easier.