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So after looking at Steam Wally on YouTube I think my 1st / 2nd gets selector fork is well worn. His has two parts on the bottom of the fork that poke out but about 5mm. Think I may weld some metal back on and see how it selects

Thanks Blackburn, the measurements are approx 7mm at the end of each fork leg . Ive also noticed this morning that i'm missing 1x detent springs on the gear cluster (@Colthebrummie). I believe this may be the cause? Thanks Rich

Hi Col, oil is all clear - i've been living with this for nearly 2 years so might just put it all back together and live with it until i can afford a refurb unit. I was thinking of welding a bit more metal on the selector fork but cant get a picture anywhere of one. Rich

Cheers Steve

Would anyone have a photo of a 1st & 2nd Gear selector fork so i can see how much metal i may need to add? Thanks

Ahhh now thats a good point - its nice and round with a circlip on the bottom. Whats the tolerance? just make sure its round? Thanks in advance

Yes all dents and balls all fine, just seems like i have 5-6mm of play when i push the gear stick forward. Doesn't jump out when i do this. I saw a new one on tinter web and it had more metal of the bottom of the forks. Rich

so....my S111 jumps out off 1st unless you hold it forward. I’ve stripped the top off the G/box and found the ‘potential’ culprit. It seems that the selector fork is quite worn (please see pics). Everything else is spot on but the movement I need to keep it in 1st is approx 5mm. Does anyone know...

Thank you all for the advice - oil change it is

Thanks Lynall that’s a great help thank you. It’s definitely part of the block as it’s cast. Rich

hi knowledgable folk. After cleaning out my sump and resealing it I found a piece of metal that looks like Its from the engine block itself. It looks to me like a blind bolt hole that’s had a bolt put in to far and scabbed off. Engine is completely fine and runs well. Thanks in advance Rich

I used Silent Coat - easy to apply and made a remarkable difference. I did the seat box and rear load area. Good price to.... https://www.silentcoat.co.uk Rich

you can either add more cable on the earth strap and stick onto another bolt on the gearbox. Its not an issue as long as its attached and earthed. Rich

With the electric fan option - i recently fitted one on my 200TDI, got the fan off ebay (£17) added a relay and mounted it with some home made brackets to the rear of the rad job done. All up for £21. Rich

Looks like a coolant temp sender. Or a cold warning light for the dash like on a S111 Rich

Id use a little T-Cut to bring up the correct colour - looks like Aries Blue though Rich

Hello all, Does anyone have the part number just for the steering box input seal pse? Ive got a leak and dont need the full kit. Thanks Rich

Many thanks Lynall, All advice greatly received. The timings chest was nice and clear thankfully. Rich

Ha ha, yes freckin oil leak. Cavey_P38 many thanks for the photos. Just been on the drive and got it off. Bottom right hand bolt just cleared the FIP. Took me about an hour to get the the sealant/old gasket off. No wonder it was leaking. Also managed to fit the FIP bracket bolts which were also...

Hi @Cavey_P38 I have a spare 300 TDI FIP just 'incase' my 200TDI one goes South. All threads ive read say that its a reletivley straight swap. See here for additional advice http://slroc2.co.uk/forum/index.php?topic=4749.0 Rich