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I had some clearance issues with plate hitting bits that stick out of the cylinder head It's in:- :):):):):):):):):):):):):):):):) The engine is pushed over a bit more than I thought:- I had assumed that the IRD sits in the same place, irrespective of what engine / transmission, but...

so what's the conclusion? Carlube ATF-U or Texamatic 7045E ? it sounds like Texamatic 7045E is closer to OEM and so will drive better from cold; have I understood correctly?

the whole shaft moves in and out. I don't think that the cog is designed to be removable from the shaft anyway. it's sort of crimped on and once removed (if even possible) I don't think I would trust it anymore.

unless you mean the gear on the end of the starter motor? Originally it was press / splined onto the starter motor shaft but now it's welded onto the shaft.

I'm not sure what you mean. The starter gear is part of the flexplate / flywheel which will be pretty firmly bolted to the crankshaft. I don't see how it could fling anywhere.

and some shots from the last couple of weeks:- Adapter plate in earlier stage bolted to block with the fake crank (bellhousing centering tool) a bit of clearancing that I had to die grind to clear those two allen head bolts the start of the alignment process

The adapter plate mounted on a K series I had to shorten the end of the V6 starter motor. Probably it shoots into the V between the heads on a V6 1.8 Rover 75 trigger wheel on a V6 torque converter waiting to be welded to the right position

today I got a K series, with crankshaft and the adapted flex plate, bolted up to the assembled Jatco gearbox. This was to index where to where to weld the trigger wheel on to the torque converter. The good news is that entire assembly turns over beautifully smoothly with no sticky or stiff...

this morning a friend of mine had a go, and it just dropped straight in for him. hmm

I'm stuck. I pulled out the reduction gear to get to the reverse band and changed the reverse band okay, but I can't get the reduction gear to drop back in. There are too many things that need to align at the same time. Also the instructions (from here...

Once my auto 1.8 is done I will have a really nice TD4 HSE for sale. It's not perfect, but it's very nice.

honestly, just get one from a JLR parts department. They don't need coding and it shouldn't need diagnostics time. Just cut the blade and it should work.

found it https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/freelander1-no-reverse-gear.390527/post-5668483

it was something to do with the number of rivets wasn't it?

The reverse band is known weak point on these transmissions, and, as there is a "heavy duty" replacement available, and, as it is so much work to get these gearboxes in and out I am thinking that I should get an fit the heavy duty one now, whilst the gearbox is in pieces already. I just spoke...

I dropped them an email just now with the VIN number of the car that my gearbox came from. Hopefully they can help.

is this correct for a V6 Jatco? :- https://www.jpat.co.uk/uploads/1/0/3/5/103549764/69__nissan_4_was_mazda_2_jf506e_ja5a_el.pdf

does anyone know of a full parts database for the Freelander 1 so that I can search for genuine part numbers myself?

I will call bbareman tomorrow and ask them if they can virginise them

I have heard elsewhere that you can jumper certain wires to disable the immo. I need to support a customer in Portugal though and I don't really want to ask them to cut wires and stuff. Really I need to send them an ECU and have them plug it in and it either works, or they follow some steps...