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ah, well mine is getting an automatic ECU, but I didn't know about the fans. It probably doesn't get hot enough in the UK to be an issue

The V6 that I took the auto gearbox and wiring loom from had a brass sensor (I guess temperature) inside the fuse box where the engine ECU lives, but the 1.8 doesn't have one. Anyone know what it's for?

Getting a new key from LR parts dept has got to be cheaper than loosing your no claims bonus, and probably less then most people's excess anyway

Dude, if you want one you have to respond to the IMs that I send you.

First start. It started on the second attempt after swapping two of the wires from the crank sensor to the ECU:- I don't know why YouTube has mirrored the image

are we still ok with Carlube ATF-U ?

no there are other options. The immobiliser unit can be hacked, but you have to remove the dash top to get to it (or change it as you are suggesting). In my opinion the best option is to take your V5 document to a Land Rover parts dept and ask for a new key, including a new transponder. They...

The 2007 V8 Jags are £735 VED per year !

some of the petrol XJs are ULEZ compliant (even Euro 4 for Birmingham etc as well), but, have horrible VED (road tax) rates. The super charged ones are quite sought after, but an X350 3.5L V8 for example, not so much. How do VED rates work with EV conversions?

It's not an X Type. What an insult !

I did manage to reverse engineer enough of the CANbus packets going to the ABS to keep it happy, and Andy Revill modified a Rover 75 ECU for me so that it pretends to be a Freelander ECU. The data is out there (page one of the EV thread), but you would need to create something that sends those...

also, I have no idea how to correctly plumb in the transmission cooler. There's no diagram of the V6 cooling system in the Haynes manual, and I don't really understand how the external thermostat arrangement works. The pipe diameter looks somewhat similar to the hoses that go to the heater...

If I turn the bottom hose the other way around, so the corner nearer to the rad and further from the thermost, and can kind of force it all to fit. The reason for this distortion is that the metal pipe that goes over the top of the gearbox had to be bent up a couple of centimetres. this...

maybe, but I think it's easier just to get some spare hoses and cut them up to move things where I need them.

personally I'm going to remove the fan controller and replace it with relays. That's because I'm using a Rover 75 ECU and it doesn't use a PWM output for the fans, just a hi speed and low speed output. I got a fan controller from a breaker so I can just steal the wires and connectors to make...

Here's my bottom engine mount arrangement

The engine has moved nearer to the right inner wing a fair bit which has pushed the A/C compressor quite near to some metal but it's not actually touching. If anyone has a 1.8 with A/C please post a picture of how the compressor pulley looks compared to the shell.

Got a bit of a clash between the K series thermostat and the gearbox. I can't remember what the bracket on the front of the gearbox is for.

that's why I drive this

Also none of these easy to weld beasts are ULEZ compliant so no good to me. I don't think that my wife wants to drive a late model 4.6 P38 around the suburbs of London. There's nothing wrong with a small, economical 4x4 estate car that's pretty capable off road. It's probably why they sold so...