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depends on the year, which is why I asked. I don't think it's F35 on a facelift.

what year is your auto?

I could feed that code into my Testbook T4 and see how it interprets it. Might take me a little while though.

Today I got the hill descent working it wasn't anything complicated. It seems to work with either the original 1.8 cluster or with the 2.5 cluster that I have. I had unpinned the power feed from the plug that goes into the interior fuse box that powers the accelerator pedal switch and the hill...

On a 2005 the remote fob just does the central locking and alarm. The immobiliser is a completely different system consisting of a chip in the key that communicates with a Sawdoc immobiliser ECU via the coil on the ignition barrel. You can buy a replacement key with a chip already programmed...

what year is the car?

I don't have a mod policy at the moment so I can't answer that. I just have standard Admiral multicar with some leniency added by their retentions people.

Maybe try Green Light next time. However you *must* have five off-road mods in addition to EV mod, things like snorkel, suspension lift, winch etc etc and you might have to prove that you have them, however they are a lot cheaper than Adrian Flux.

Ah I suppose key 1 and key 2 are completely different inputs so you can connect them to two different resistor networks. I don't know why I didn't think of that.

There are only four functions on the steering wheel (vol+, vol-, back, next), and just using the key 1 wire they all work. I don't think that there's any more functionality to be gained.

Got our insurance sorted yesterday. Everyone says that Admiral multicar doesn't do modified car insurance, but, it seems that if you have insured all your cars and your home with them for seven or eight years, and it's renewal time, and I suppose that they really don't want to loose you, they...

Thank you for replying. What you said worked. Just to be clear:- The two wires that you cut come from the steering wheel controls to the back of the factory head unit plug. You earth one of the wires to chassis. You connect the other wire to the "key 1" wire on the Joying head unit. The "key 2"...

that's what my Jaguar XJ is for.

I had a Peugeot 607 2.2 HDI auto that was like that. It only had four gears and first was very high. Pulling out on busy roundabouts was a nightmare. I would have to stay back from the line and anticipate a gap, floor it, and run up to the roundabout so that by the time I got there the turbo...

by the way, I bought a double DIN cage and a Freelander 1 adapter, but this didn't work well. It resulted in the headunit sticking out of the dash by about 14mm too much. What did work was drawing around the adapter onto a piece of scrap washing machine and cutting it out with an anglegrinder:-...

Hi I bought a Joying Android head unit a couple of years ago. I can find no indications of what exact model it is in the menus, it just says Android 10. There are two unused wires coming out of the back labelled "key1" and "key2" and my guess is that these are what need connecting to the...

It's not perfect, but I quite like it. i think that maybe the gearbox assumes that the engine has more torque than it does, so it does take a fair bit of accelerator depression before it "kicks down", but I actually quite like that. I can actually use what torque the engine does have without it...

I went for a bit of a drive with a friend this morning and got it warm. Went back to the garage and got it level (previously it was a bit nose up) and warm (previously I think it was cold) and I had to add a whole litre of ATF before it started coming out of the level plug. So either I have a...

The noise definitely varies with input revs, so it's something that's spinning at input speed. When I looked at this before I noticed that in D but stationary the noise is still there. The interesting thing about D and stationary is that in that scenario the input shaft is at 0rpm with full...

I removed both belts (PAS and alternator). The noise stays the same.