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I'm with you, is that TC definitely engaging with the oil pump ? I've not long done my FL1 auto. There are 3 stages (on the FL1) you can feel as you slide the TC in, the last being the oil pump engaging, you could then hear squishy noises when you turned the TC. As I mated the box/eng I kept...

Above posted in the wrong bit, what a plank :rolleyes:

This was mine yesterday after chasing rabbits through the undergrowth, his right eye was completely covered so he couldn't see out of it !

If the IRD has been upside-down etc oil has probably found its way past the baffles inside so will get pushed out of the breather. Have you checked the level ? If it's been overfilled the excess will also be pushed out the breather, think the IRD only hold about a litre.

Hi, they don't look too bad, certainly nothing a sandblast & re-paint wouldn't cure.

Or multimeter probes 'testing' continuety & or voltages ?

If you can extend the wires enough (& out of harms way) so you can plug l/h sensor into the r/h 'circuit' & vica versa.

Hi, yes I would replace that, along with the cap, if it's got those small cracks. If it's a TD4 then it shouldn't really lose any coolant, I know mine hasn't & it's close to 180,000 now, apart from when the radiator went & the EGR pipe got a pin hole in it,see pic 🙂.

Hi, it could well have been changed already in that case it( the coating) won't need scraping back but my original pipes had a green tinge to them (which is a plastic coat/sleeve). Have a look at a good clean none corroded bit of brake pipe, say under the bonnet going to the ABS pump & see if...

Hi, not sure what you mean by the HP number. Normally when ordering parts it's registration number or chassis number as this should tell the parts suppliers which is the correct part.

Yes, just cut the corroded bit out ( I went from the flexi hose,which was new, & as far back as I needed to) & replace what you need to. Have a practice on a piece of new pipe (on the bench) at getting the flares right before you tackle the actual job & the only other thing is you'll have to...

If like mine the pipes were only corroded to just under the rear passenger door then buy a flaring tool, some brake pipe & joiners/connectors & make your own. It's a bit fiddly getting the old brake pipes out of the plastic clips without breaking them but better than going all the way to the...

Sounds like you need imput from @gstuart hopefully he can answer your questions, all the best.

Correct.

Hi, I think it probably needs replacement door locks. I had this with my D2 & FL1 (D2 drivers door, FL fr. passenger door) where they would lock but could only be opened from inside. I have both mine set to single entry where as yours sounds like it's set to global.

Hi, the level bolt for the Jatco is the one circled in the picture. DO NOT remove any other bolts under there as one of the other bolts holds the reverse band together inside the gearbox (which you then HAVE to take the gearbox out, strip & repair it).

Hi, as @Freddie17 says that is an earth lead & fits on a tab that slots down between the filter & plastic housing, see pic, the earth tab is available as a separate part about £2 (without looking) when I changed mine.

That looks like the same bolt head as in mine, I've never taken it out so couldn't tell you if it's a self tappers or 6mm thread, see pic.

Hi. I'm near Royston (always walking the dog up the heath). Often park in the Maconald's on the roundabout & I always have my scanner with me so if you're stuck let me know.

As you probably know you can have the locks set for single entry,first push of the button opens drivers door only then a second push opens the remaining three, then there's global entry which opens all four doors on the first push. These entry situations can be changed with a nanocom or maybe...