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Gotcha! I was thinking left and right was turning the key in the drivers door to the left (anticlockwise ) and right ( clockwise). :vb-groan2: :vb-lol:

So, as only one switch changes state is that correct? The other needs constant 12v? All doors lock and unlock off the fob and the key now so if that constant 12v is not correct then something shouldn't be working?? I have two issues connected to the doors though , osr knob and occasional but...

OK. Just checked them switches again. Right key switch changes state to ground from 12v but left switch stays at 12v. I do struggle to get the lead into the car end, bad back and knees don't help. Annoyingly the gearbox fan runs constantly when in diagnosis mode, that's a new thing! Pleasingly...

I've got diesel BTW. Query if I may. I keep the nano lead permanently plugged in at the car end , the nano end is within reach from the drivers seat tucked up around the carpet and down the side of the passenger seat. Noticed this morning that some fluff had got up inside the pins, nowt serious...

Just having a warming cuppa and then I'll try the nano on that key switch again.

This is weird! It's, sort of, fixed itself. Just been out and got back, lifted the iffy osr knob and...not sure exactly what I did next...but I put the key in the lock, turned to lock, iffy osr knob went down(it wasn't before off the key) hazards flashed (I don't recall them flashing using the...

Actually, I'm thinking that the 12v is correct? Supply voltage that is always present?

All the switches change state on the door ajar and right/left cdl. Right and left key switch ? Is that key turned left and right in the drivers door lock? If so, neither change state. Whilst in diagnosis, ign on, engine off, the gearbox fluid cooling fan behind the lower bumper came on and off...

About 3 yrs old. No harm changing them I suppose...if I had some, which I don't. I might be mistaken but doesn't a message appear on the dash if the fob battery's are low? 2001 my. Just trying to pluck up the courage to go outside and fiddle, cold, foggy, damp here plus rain and wind incoming.

Mine doesn't even like me sitting in it. Woe betide I should be so obnoxious to want to drive it anywhere.:vb-lol:

Okey dokey, will do. Ta.

Ahh...yes...I remember now! Had an issue earlier in the year that I recall the fob didn't work then but using the key once or twice and pressing fob buttons got it working again. Keith suggested a sticky microswitch in the latch. I actually used the nano to check the switches at the time but all...

I'll whip the door card off that rear door tomorrow and have a look see if it's not raining. I did try pulling the button up and retrying the fob and the same pushing the knob down and using the fob but no differance.

Nothing on the dash keith. Don't know if my nanocom will give any clues if it even covers the cdl.

Just started today. Car won't lock or unlock off the fob. Led is flashing on it though. Key locks and unlocks all doors BUT The right hand rear (behind the drivers door) sill button does not Go up or down but it does "twitch" a bit like it's trying to. Coincidence or two separate issues?

It's been sealed by autoglass. If they had refused to bodge it for now I would have sealed it myself with something. The dry (LOL) run to Shrewsbury was not much of a bother as I got to meet Alan who was a senior tech and knew p38s and said he will personally fit the new new screen and top trim...

Ended up going to Shrewsbury today anyway! Went to go out in the 38 early this morning and the inside glass is soaking wet and iced up in places. Visible gap and draught in the top passenger side of the windscreen, headliner (new ish) wet. Rang them up and after some resistance from them they...

I see that the various connectors on a p38 all have an ID number in the electrical manual. ie c244, is this number moulded into the connector? Just curious.

There a pain for sure. Impossible to do the job well with the inlet on, gates stuff does go on its just tight to the injector body. I had issues with number one injector leaking hot gasses past the copper washer and softening the leak off until it leaked. Changed the washer twice with some off...

Thinking about it some more, I did remove the tee piece that you've rotated and the ducting that goes to the rh side window demister. That might have been to enable the lower ducting to be pulled up and out OR it might have been because it was all floppy near the vent and I was getting a buzzy...