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Here you go.

3 pumps if you have posh headlight wipers like me! Access to the pumps is good if you take the front bumper off.

I've had mine done twice, once at kwikfit, no leaks, lasted a couple of months tops. Then went to a local landy independent who found a leaky condensor(that's common) I replaced that and it lasted about 6 months so I've given up for now. Ring do a leak detection fluid which can be used...

Mines wabco D, the last type I believe. For @P38Seb Nano said my RR was faulty but twas front left.

It is on one of them, front left iirc 😬 . I do recall right rear was a front one. Back home soon so I'll post my note up. Maybe bbs fixed it now but mine was brand new 3 yrs? Ago and that was wrong no fix on their website last time I looked, probably a year ago though.

Bear in mind that the nano isn't correct on abs sensor positions. I've got the correct ones marked on the case I keep the nano in. I forget which is which and I'm not home at the mo but I'll post them up when I'm back later if you like.

Spray it in with the engine running? A squirt every , say, 30secs or so?

One arm is slightly longer than the other, they look identical but are not. If you look at the caps covering the wiper arm nuts, there is a little slot you use to ping them out with a thin flat blade screwdriver.

She's got to be pulling hard under load like up a hill for max boost.

I guess if ALL the wiring loom is there then its is a goer, replacement screen, hvac, relays. But if not, you could use a stand alone hws kit like you can get for defenders or make one up. Spare blank on the top consul might be suitable for the switch. I'd check under the plenum for the two feed...

I've done that on the 110 and the 38 with no oil loss, couple of drips clinging to the shaft at worst, a rag on the floor and another to wipe the shaft as you withdraw it if your drive is nice.

I think nano can read boost?

Had an epic oil change day. Engine, autobox, transfer box and both diffs.

A tapered drift would likely pull that straight. On my 110 (same set up really) I knocked the drift in from the opposite side to where the bolt goes in, once it was lined up the drift protruded to far through for me to get the bolt in, I carefully removed the drift but it shifted slightly again...

I did one at a time on the 110 but it still rotated a bit. A jack under the diff nose and a long tapered drift through the remaining bolt holes pulled it straight .it was a faff though and I've got a pit too, lying on your back would be a pita I should imagine.

What he said. Not on a 38 but a 110, I had to jack the nose of the diff up, which rotates it, a bit to get the trailing arms lined up.

This is the resistance reading I got on a brand new no4 injector.

Durty perv. :vb-eyebrows:

https://www.rangerovers.net/threads/info-repairing-window-switchpack-switches.187593/

My 110 csw has one.