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I think so. Not much, but yes. But I thought the relay was somewhere on the inner wheel arch. Near the starter? Item 20.

Any photos of the interior as it is at the moment?

Either works for CV joints. Got to be EP90 for UJs.

Funnily enough I'm using an aluminium enriched 2k epoxy mastic to fill the pits on the front axle of the 101. Unlike the ordinary series vehicles, the swivel balls can't be replaced, as they are welded onto the axle tube. The plan is to sand this lot back to smooth, and use one shot grease (CV...

Which carb is it? Got any photos?

Do you have access to the 90/110 parts book? That will help with finding what is compatible between the petrol and diesel oily bits.

Excellent. What's the plan?

Okay. Gotcha. Stick with the EP. Ensure the leather is thoroughly soaked in petroleum jelly. Nothing else.

What do you mean by a gaiter seal? One of the fittings that go over the swivel ball seal that cover the entire swivel ball?

Probably? Would you need an IVA? If you are changing the chassis I think you would. Technically possible, if you can fabricate things.

Err, UJs? CVs? Nothing? Got to be able to steer!

Assuming you've UJ joints on the half shafts then EP90 for sure. Nothing else gets into the rollers on the UJs.

Dodgy sender. If it's not over heating when in the red, it's the sender. Presuming that the sender is in full contact with the head, no PTFE. I've a good few sensors, none are the same resistance. I swapped until I had one that was nicely in the centre.

Go for it.

Check out 101parts, able engineering. I'm rebuilding mine at the moment.

In theory, yes. can you get 2.5 petrol pistons there?

Result. Thanks for updating.

Thanks for reporting back. Helps the next time someone has the same problem.

Easily done.

Or rebuilt on a warped casing?