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Easy job? Is there any difficulty over getting the right part, or is there only one option?

Does this look like the plug that ought to go into the bottom of it? Appears to have been shorted

It's a 2001 model. I did get it remapped by Dynachip, but he said it didn't need replacing so its factory fitted as far as I know. I have no idea what/where I'm looking for the clutch switch

Yep, that's what I get.

The switch seems to be working; I even had the multimeter on it while attached to the car, and it changes when the brake pedal is pressed.

Do you mean press the brake, pull the switch down to meet it, and then go out for a drive to see if that has released it and the CC will now engage? I know my way around a multimeter (electronic engineering degree), but you'll need to tell me what/where etc. I should have RAVE somewhere, yeah.

Manual, and the horn works fine.

Yes, that's one of 2 or 3 that I read, none of which mention it.

I wasn't aware that was necessary, none of the places I saw mentioned it. I don't have access to one so if that's it then I'm screwed for the forseeable.

My searching has turned up conflicting advice, so hopefully someone can help. I fitted the cruise control switches etc. yesterday, but it doesn't seem to be working. It could be my error, of course. The light on the binnacle switch lights up just fine, I get up to speed (was trying at a little...

Should I be checking for anything in particular as a cause of the failure? I've seen something saying that they don't fail due to wear...

I'm guessing it is, since my father in law (used to be a mechanic, though for engines more like trucks/RVs generally) reckons it sounds quite off and continues for quite a while after turning the engine off. If so, is it anything I could sort myself with basic tools, or would I be better off...

Yep, a straightforward 12V relay, but yeah it does have an LED now that you mention it, good point. I have some solid state ones coming anyway, will see if they fare any better.

Yes, and when I do that the voltage that the relay sees is only 5-6V, whereas when I attach the meter across from the signal to ground I get the full 12V. I'm not trying to power anything from it, I just want it to trip a relay - that will turn the power on.

Ah, that makes more sense. So I've found that signal, and I get 12V once the engine starts; but when I attach a relay instead the voltage drops to 5-6V. Do I just need a relay with a higher resistance?

I looked at one but heard they're not great, and the longevity is awful :-/

I suppose its incentive to rein in my foot. Its been fun since getting the remap done.

Could really do with getting some faults read if anyone is in the vicinity.

I have a very kind offer from someone travelling up here in a few weeks, but I'd really like to be able to get a read much sooner so I can get things sorted.

If you haven't fitted yours yet then I'd be a little cautious that it could warp again :-/