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I am not sure about the 90 exhaust on a S3, everything is possible, the larger exhaust is for a reason!! But I don’t know of the impact it would have. The silencer is the most likely cause of a restriction. Others might have the conversion with the standard system have they any issues?

The 2.5 is larger

Be careful you don’t get caught out when you fix it, the exhaust can hold oil and still smoke for some time after.

Is your exhaust up to it, no restrictions, silencer blockage, the 2.5 has a bigger bore. The RR difs will only give the potential of another 8-10 mph your engine should be up to the job. The easy checks I would do Fuel pick up clean? Fuel pipes correctly fitted, meaning feed and return in...

I don’t think so, I would be looking at why your engine has low power.

The Engine you have should perform better in a 90/110 70 mph is achievable.

I did one for a guy about 10 years ago, I can’t remember any major issues. It all seemed to work well.:)

I think the oil leak shouldn’t be a problem, but using grease in the swivels is not the answer, the drive shaft has unsealed bearings which rely on the oil to lube. Grease stuck to the inside of the swivel isn’t going to do much.

Have a look at this post :cool: http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f6/lt77-into-series-iii-54831.html

Assuming it’s a single line system, I would start looking at a seized slave cylinder or as said shoe return spring problem.

A hose should be good enough, usually the water is red muddy looking, to make it easier the thermostat or by pass hose will have to be removed, More work though

There are other similar posts here on the forum, I had a long winded solution until I looked at the year, sorry :confused:

The pre facelift seems to have more niggles etc the engine is chain driven, there is plenty of doom and gloom if you look for it, but most vehicles have them. The way I read it the owners mostly love the Freelander but are bitterly disappointed when something brakes, they seem let down. This...

Take the opportunity to flush out the system :)

You can check the gate for alignment and adjust it if needed, There is two different detent springs one stiffer than the other, maybe the wrong ones have been used. You could remove the spring end plates or plug and release the pressure and then try it. If it’s still excessively tight it must be...

Use the search function and I am sure there will be others.:) http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f38/freelander-how-clean-your-fuel-pump-52118.html

Does it go into gear ok with the engine not running, if so it could be the clutch isn’t dis engaging properly causing the shafts still to turn, if so you keep forcing it in will cause your syncro mesh assy to prematurely wear. Let us know and we can go further. Too thick an oil can also cause this.

It sounds like the threaded rod in your master cylinder is badly adjusted, this could have also caused you to have problems bleeding the system. When adjusted correctly as said the rod should have a little free play before connecting with the master cylinder. You can see and adjust this through...

Ok so it looks like fuel, Your fuel pump ticking away? Your fuel filter clean? Its unlikely both carbs are going off at the same time unless you have no filter in the system. Did you check the choke linkage? With the petrol feed pipe disconnected from the carb does the fuel flow out ok?

Try this :cool: Doric 4x4 - Homepage