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The S2 had them mounted in the inner bulk head!!

:) Hi fit a push button and a relay or a returnable flick switch and a relay, the new heater plugs take direct 12V you don’t need a resistor Your petrol ignition SW wont have the heater option.

A windy gun is the answer or jam in a piece of sacrificial wood in where the starter motor fits, jam it up if you can

You need to fit the S3 Clutch assy, the S2 has a raised boss and will be no good with the S3 , you will also need the S3 slave mech assy, its better in the long run. If the driven plate is the same diameter you can use that.:)

Agree with fit the rear first for A TEST DRIVE, It should increase top end by 05 to 010 mph, standard are 4.7 :1 RR are 3.54:1 make sure they are the older RR difs due to the splines being different on the later models, splines the half shafts fit into.:)

They will work but you have to re engage them occasionally to re lube the drive train, think, the more metal engaged and moving the more power needed to move it hence more fuel!!

Hi give some more clues, Ok I have seen the front, with a front FIP it ‘s possibly a 2.5 I need to see more to identify, cheers:)

As above, make sure the drain plug on the transfer box is at the lowest level (I have seen the plate the wrong way around) drain all the oil , have you a dispenser to pump the oil in ? if not re use the 1 L EP oil bottle and hose. The (willer plug) Filler plug is next to the hand brake housing...

I think you might be talking about iluminition, anyway converting to electronic ignition is a good thing, points only stay accurate for 12hrs from new, if you fit an electronic ignition (dependant on type) it will use the points as a reference point only and wont wear out , the elec ign also...

Hi, Have reconditioned a perkins before, what is the model No? the 4203 was a favourite a few years ago, Black smoke is unburned fuel, the fuel pump can be set at lower limits, I have noticed too far advanced timing can cause black smoke and too small valve clearances, overall they are not an...

You might need a fuel additive due to lead free petrol not being an option on those days, the fuel (lead) also acted as a lube for the valve guides, using non lead fuel can cause sticking valves in the guides causing a misfire and thus poor performance.:eek:

Off memory they were both grease, why not call into your local TA centre REME and ask them, they look after FFR Landrover’s (Fitted For Radio)

Hi, going off faded memory the SWB had a single system brakes, it sounds like a M cylinder from a LWB Dual system, if it has two outputs diagonal split. In the past I found a seal kit was always a short term answer unless you used a glaze buster and honed out the bore!! A safer system...

I think the bush assy was set to fail, I think that’s why the later axles had a bearing top and bottom, mind if the preload wasn’t correct it gave some drivers a fright with steering wobble!!!:eek:

Hello all, I have been away from the Landrover scene for a while but mainly spent my time (early years) as a Landrover Mechanic, answering some posts today has been enjoyable and it seems to be coming back mostly on S2 S3 90/110 R Rover classic. I try not to get my hands dirty too much these...

Hi, if that’s the case try asking Landrover there should be a part No, is it the same as a standard one?

Hi sorry, never had the privilege of a left hooker :eek:

This post might help you;) http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f6/new-alternator-charge-light-question-help-55515.html

I think you are right, black smoke excess fuel, back to basics, Clean air filter? Leaky injectors or worn, out of calibration fuel pump, too far advanced fuel pump timing. Valve clearances too tight? There could be other factors like engine condition. A few things to consider.

I think I would remove the sliding sleeve gator and measure the amount of splines showing (a standard fit) then measure what’s needed with your Salisbury fitted and get it modified if needed, as you are aware the sliding sleeve is essential.:)