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I'd steer clear of remoulds, false economy if you ask me. Want to be able to trust a tyre.

Make sure that clutch is centralised properly - sometimes its an idea to loosen the pressure plate off just a little (so the clutch plate can slightly move if forced, but holds its position), then connect up the engine & box, carefully then split the box & engine again, making sure to simply...

Oh the wonders of stripping a series down! Remember doing mine last May, took about half a week I think for a rolling chassis. Then the fun of putting her back together again...Still not finished! Though nearly there, just a few bits and bobs to do along with a re-wire and we should be MOT'ing...

Can be pains to get out - but a ball joint splitter can help the process. Main reason its shot is probably because rubber boot has a hole in - water gets in and ruins the joint. It looks knackered, so i'd be tempted to just get the angle grinder out and cut the nut / pin off..Hey presto, track...

Not 100% sure, but think (if maths is right), thats about 8mm x 23mm. From the same website I put underneath. Matt

Waxoil definately the best bet for any chassis - including galvanised! But only worth it if your dealing with a good chassis to start with, hammerite isn't a bad bet if your just delaying the inevitable with already shot metal, but really isn't much cop if your trying to protect decent metal...

Just to add - Land Rover Body Fastener Kits, Spares, Land Rover Parts - good for all fastnings. Also realised put one to many winks in that last reply. Oh dear. Matt

For rear tub to rear cross member; Part No: S2-255227 Bolt rear body 5/16 unf x 7/8 But for the driver side front of the tub, you need a special backing plate that you rivet to the body of the tub, so you don't need to get to the nuts with a spanner with the fuel tank on ;) Part number; 332451...

Hey, Need to prep & spray my series roof & sides next week, but need to get the paint made up, anybody got the colour code for the standard cream thats used for the two tones? To my knowledge there is only one code - i.e. only one kind of cream! Did a quick seach, but nothing conclusive...

Nice & solid repair to the bulkhead - not to mention neat! Skim of filler - it's what fillers designed for. Filling over good metal is perfectly reasnable, and it looks good. Good old wiring - people never seem to understand how dangerous auto electrics can be! Matt

Yea, sometimes you can score lucky with stuff - not disputing that at all. And it may be you'd hit lucky with the box parts, but if not...seems somewhat of a gamble..you won't know you've won the gamble until you sell her!

Guy who rebuilt my box said he only uses genuine parts. If you do a good job on your rebuild and use quality parts, should be good for a fair few more miles. If you use cheaper parts and then in the not so distant future have to crack it open again..you won't be happy. It's one of those 'can't...

Whats the engine sounding like when your going at max speed? i.e. is the engine sounding like its working as hard as it can at 25mph or is it sounding healthy and unstressed? Because 25mph in a diesel shouldnt sound like the engines about to pop (though it wont sound like its on tick over...

Job of a chassis is provide integral structure for the vehicle - so long as this role is acheived, the tester should be happy. Doesn't matter how many patches there are on a chassis, so long as they have been fitted correctly and safely - allowing the original strength of the chassis to be...

Doesnt surprise me! I remember starting mine thinking, give me a summer and a small amount of cash and she'll be rolling in time for the winter. Well, here we are in Jan and she's nearly (but not quite!) finished! Hopefully be wrapped up at Easter (at uni, so can only work on her when i'm back...

Ouch, more holes in it than a teabag! Nah, seen worse, but still not very pleasent. Rest of her looks in fair shape though. What's the chassis like? Are you planning on splitting the body down for respray / body work off the chassis or as is? Best Of Luck, Matt

£3900 for a rebuilt landy seems a good price, but I would want a gearbox rebuild & Galvanised (not just new) chassis for that. Seems strange that you'd rebuild not on a galvanised. Not to mention, ideally, a galvanised bulkhead. £3450 for that clean one is alright so long as its straight and...

In short (for me at least), I would say anything done to her that makes you feel you have made her look more modern or has made her a flash show off vehicle to park next to boy racer fiestas to make yourself feel a bigger man... A series is a classic motor now, if somebody wants a show off...

I know when I stripped mine down she was sealed up with all sorts - bits of old rubber, lots of sealent, few original rubbers etc. Think anything that will seal would work, but I will put all new (genuine) seals back on her, they were never exactly waterproof to start with..but by the time...

You can't be so black and White with valuation like this. As said above, just saying a galvanised chassis isn't enough, what's the point of a decent chassis if your running a crap gearbox and running gear. I'd put more attention to checking the gearbox & bulkhead than chassis, cheaper to keep...