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Hava a good rumagae under the front seats, I found the missing buttons from mine there!

Disconnect the fluid pipes, the drop arm ball joint and the steering coupling shaft. Then just remove the four bolts to lift the box off the chassis. It's heavy but easier if you remove front wheel. New box can be held in place against the top of the chassis rail to replace the bolts to hold...

Changing brake pipes is not a great hassle, I changed all mine ('94 300) last Sept. Be careful pulling old pipes out of plastic clips, or get new ones before starting!

What do you mean by the manual override?

Instant gasket will do just as well, make sure block and face of pump body are clean

Removing the 'windmill' fan is worthwhile, I never have overheating probs, even when towing the caravan, the Kenlowe fan seldom cuts in. The original viscous fan can reduce MPG by approx. 8 to 10%. Yes your wages will take a bit of a dent owning a Disco, but well worth it. Yust take the ups...

Unless you intend to use the disco off-road, reverting back to normal spec. springs and good quality shocks may be the best way to go. Also check suspension bushes and ball joint on rear 'A' frame, excesive wear will affect road holding and rolling on corners. As far as mpg, just ensure that...

If the lift pump doesn't come with union nuts and olives, get two of each. The olives don't like being used twice, can be a pig to seal properly. Don't tighten them (new uns)too much, just nip them up.

Anti-Roll bar ball joints and shocks are worth a check, not expensive to replace.

Steering wheel alignment is done by turning the tie bar connecting the steering box drop arm to the nearside wheel. Slacken both ball joint clamps and turn the rod (with mole grips), I can't remember which way will turn the steering wheel to the left or right, trial and error will tell. Keep...

Steering damper, track rod ends and steering box also replaced last year, clunk seems to come from middle of car, or behind drivers seat.

I have a new remote alarm/central locking fob, ( oval shape, single button, '95 300tdi) have followed procedure for programming, but have a problem. I have gone through the process of switching ignition on/off, locking/unlocking doors, releasing bonnet switch, switching ign. on/off again all...

I have had a clunk from underneath (wet or dry) for the past few weeks. I replaced all wheel bearings, shock absorbers, poly bushes and radius arm bushes, rear 'A' frame ball joint, anti-roll bar bushes and ball joints (front and rear) and rear prop shaft CJ and rubber doughnut last September...

If prices for Landys are falling, does this mean price of spares and parts will fall ?????????????

Both track rod ball joints are right hand thread, on the steering tie bar one is left hand the other right.

Getting the drop arm of is a bitch to do, I gave up and bought a new arm when changing the box on my '94 300. I was also advised not to bother with a repair kit.

Take intercooler out, lay it on it's back and fill with parafin, leave overnight.

'Ice Cold in Alex' also has one, parked. Film was set in 1943, 11 years before first Landy made!!!!!!!!!!

Don't be put off by the amount of work involved. It's a straight forward 'nuts and bolts' job. Do the wheel bearings at the same time, only special tool needed is a 52mm box spanner/socket to remove/replace wheel bearing retaining nut. You only have to drain the rear axle, not the front...

Same for a 300, screws into end caps can strip when taken out, plastic gets brittle, araldite will solve problem when re-assembling.