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Yeah infact theres a thing in this months LRM which is interesting. The guy assembles the diff and puts some of that engineers blue on four of the teeth on crown wheel then he turns it a few times, it makes an oval shape on each of the teeth, the oval is in the middle, covering most of the...

Yeah infact theres a thing in this months LRM which is interesting. The guy assembles the diff and puts some of that engineers blue on four of the teeth on crown wheel then he turns it a few times, it makes an oval shape on each of the teeth, the oval is in the middle, covering most of the...

Yeah infact theres a thing in this months LRM which is interesting. The guy assembles the diff and puts some of that engineers blue on four of the teeth on crown wheel then he turns it a few times, it makes an oval shape on each of the teeth, the oval is in the middle, covering most of the...

Might be wrong here but i reckon a whining diff is more likely in need of adjustment than replacement bearings.

Might be wrong here but i reckon a whining diff is more likely in need of adjustment than replacement bearings.

Might be wrong here but i reckon a whining diff is more likely in need of adjustment than replacement bearings.

Might be wrong here but i reckon a whining diff is more likely in need of adjustment than replacement bearings.

Might be wrong here but i reckon a whining diff is more likely in need of adjustment than replacement bearings.

test the alarm is still working by sitting in it and arming it, it should go off if you wave your arms about. Some systems have ways of telling you the fob battery needs replacing so you might want to try that just incase.

hi where are you i think i have one.

im not too sure on last post but like said if a prop turns and no wheels on the axle does something is broke, it looks like the fault on the rear is the diff. get it removed to confirm, you will probably find a few pieces in there. You will need a 10 spline diff with a 4 bolt flange.. If you...

Wheels on floor-prop turns-wheels dont = something broke between the prop and wheel. Can be diff or shaft at rear and diff/shaft/cv joint/drive flange at front. When you did this test btw did you have the rear shafts bolted back in or on the floor?

biglads method has always worked for me too.

osr hub leaking oil (from the back of the wheel right?) will be hub oil seal but might be due to bearing loose/knackered, jack the wheel up and check it spins nicely with no noise (the pads might rub, listen for rumbling) and check for play in the bearing, the wheel will wobble if problem...

CV joint is the same for both sides. Hold the shaft (that goes to diff) and gently tap cv off with hammer, its got an internal circlippy thing holing it in place. I assume it is the cv joint you are wanting to change yes? If its worn it clicks on full lock.

Probably wont be too bad, but it should fail its next MOT. As for britpart i have used loads of britpart stuff and had no problems, some parts (like wheel bearings) do need fitting properly or they will fail prematurely.